sonoman

Might also try some brush bristles, should be lighter with less rudder effect, you can use the cheap chip brushs and kinda color them up with some sharpies...good luck

I have spent a lot of time thinking about this work area dilemma that everyone that gets into this hobby faces, its not that it requires a ton of space, more like separation...If you work with wood then obviously the dust and mess that creates will interfere with your finishing area, air brush, drying wheel...assembly area...the list goes on, so my next work area will be set up with some sort of vac system for the debris...about triple the ventilation that i currently have, so much light that it will seem like the sun is right there with you and maybe a tv...lol, because its so addicting you will never get to watch again esp. when your buddys start keeping you busy making sure they have their stuff by friday....good luck on the shop.

I personally only make topwaters from scratch and a few glider type baits for seatrout and redfish, all of mine factory baits are pretty much custom painted by myself but living where i do...shallow water for the most part here in central Florida I havent even thought to build one....do you have a website Skeeter?...I tend to prefer guys who build the whole deal start to finish, like Rob does there at jawjacker but thats just me, apparently theres a lot of guys making a few buckss painting the KO's...

Where I fish that arm would be covered in slime grass and just about anything it got near....no thank you.

I get a kick out of the "shop", looks sterile....generally in watching many of these type of videos I have come to the conclusion that wherever its ridiculous cold, stays frozen or very difficult to actually go fishing these guys are super good at the craft....where I live its about producing many baits quickly that actually work...because we fish year round , my guys want their stuff before saturday morning and cant afford to pay what i'm sure that fellow gets....so I guess you need to choose what it is you want....art or a lure that works and catches fish.

Norman DD 16, 12 LB flourocarbon, custom built MHX 7'6" CB905 CB 907 blanks coupled with the latest Shimano Curados....works exceptionally well.

Thanks for the replys, exactly what i was thinking....I am going to have to convince him to let me put something over it.

Nathan, thanks I saw it, but he has requested that the baits appear as the bomber does, they do not have any coating matte or otherwise on them...just basically a very low sheen to flat appearing flourescent paint, I just haven't done that so i'm not sure if the createx that I have would hold up whatsoever....

I have a guy who has asked me to paint some finished plastic production cranks to look like the flat finish and paint scheme of the bomber 7A fire tiger pattern, I was wondering what everyone uses to do this and how does the finish hold up?...I am not accustomed to not spraying on a clear coat so my concern is durability....thoughts?

Nice toy, great engineering but not ready for prime time just yet, personally might be worth buying just to see if it becomes a collectors item in the future.

I was thinking somewhere along the lines of say a 28 degree wide gap jig hook, mustad 91768 I believe, might be able to use 1 larger hook or rig two on a pin or something...I'm hoping you find success because here in central Florida that thing would be fantastic, the castability alone would be the deal good luck.

Best thing I have seen is putting them in brake fluid for a couple days...just dont leave them in too long , every once in a while it will cause separation.

That set up definately has my interest and its not for my personal stuff because I prefer the Devcon results as well, but I do make quite a few lures at a time when I do actually make them ...lol, just be quick and easy, I'm sure someone will come along and enlighten us...Thanks

well the way I was thinking nothing changes other than you using larger hooks, everything stays the same other than the magnet deal, way more gap should allow for way better hook up ratio.

why not just fix them in the upright position and utilize that set up Mark Pack uses for the new jig design, bet it would work really well.

Skeeter they show the product in a rectangular box with a hinged lid on several of the commercial lure mfgs videos that are out there, open the lid , dip multiple baits and set them to dry somewhere....if in fact the product in the box was an MCU would it not want to harden?...esp since everyone that uses that stuff talks about how hard it is to keep, so much so that bloxygen is sold to aid in keeping it liquid....still love to know exactly what product that is.

if the product on the video was a MCU wouldn't it want to cure the way they presented it?, I generally spray automotive clears or use epoxy for my finish coats so I havent any experience with that particular product, I saw a video on the fella that builds the AC shiners and he had the same set up as the Stanford crankbait facility so there must be something to it.

Hand rubbed lacquers are extremely durable, and look like a million bucks but this process is extremely labor intensive and just not done very often, everythings basecoat / clearcoat these days.

Thanks for the info.

I have seen many different commercial lure mfgs that dip lures for the clear coat such as in the video, my question is this....What is that product?

It completely comes down to the forage available, here in Florida we have tons of small bait, tons of large bait and you had best be throwing what they are feeding on, but take for example mountain lakes say in North Georgia where they are drinking water clear full of spotted bass, with relatively lower numbers of largemouth...guys are catching them on 4/6lb test tiny drop shot rigs but sitting on the deck rt next to that set up is a 7 -8" bullshad or similiar swimbait, my belief is that is because of the addition of blueback herring to many of these lakes it has changed how they feed....this sport will never be a simple one size fits all, or you have got to throw this one thing...so personally it comes down to what you enjoy doing!

A red eye shad wont run correctly if one of the eyes comes off!

Thanks, def going t try it out.

update...I changed the lead out of my Lyman melter, cleaned the thing, purchased the drop out stuff and applied to the mold, put soft lead in the thing and now it pours like a champ....no bad pours whatsoever , so a big thanks to everyone for the help....now to get more soft lead

I am also very interested in that process, I have had several custom requests as of late and I believe a fiberglass mold may just be what the Dr. ordered.