Saugerman

I'd also be interested in finding the wire bait keepers, Please let me know also. Thanks

That's a good price,would you mind telling where you can buy it for that? I use Calhoun's,and I like it.If you would rather, send me a PM.

Psilvers is right,you can convert it very easily,with a dremel tool.

It may not be what your looking for,but the ultra minnow is very easy to convert to this type bait.

I also engrave my molds,once it's done,it's permanent.

Mark.you may be right,i talked again with the glass company,and they said they would be glad to try it. They did say they wouldn't guarantee it. I might should look at another way,rather than waist the money. I have made divided metal pouring cups ,and they work,but the ones I have, hold very little plastic. There has to be a simple way of making these pyrex cups into divided cups,that are microwave friendly.

i have been thinking about trying the tempered glass myself. But I called the glass business near home, and told them that I wanted to buy some tempered glass,they said they could order me some ,that they ordered the glass and another place would temper it, the smallest size was 10 by 12 inches. I told them I would need to have it cut to my pattern,and they said it can't be cut after it's been tempered. They said it would shatter. I"m thinking that if I get the glass cut first, then have it tempered maybe that would work. I didn't think about asking them that while I had them on the phone,but I will call them and see if that's a possibility.

I have both the Basstackle 6 oz. and the Bears two color set up, in the medium size. I like the Basstackle myself,but both are good quality injectors. I just find the Basstackle a little more user friendly.Also the 6 oz size you can fill several molds, without refilling it. I also like the locks on the nozzles.

Pitbull ,I really like your baby bass crankbait color,it looks good. Who makes that mold ? Iv.e been wanting one similar to that in a 4.5 inch size?

Does anyone else have trouble getting the hot plastic to flow through their valves on the Presto Pot? I have 2 and I have to take a small torch and heat the valve to get it to flow at all,and then it just barely does,even if the plastic is 360 degrees.I bought a new valve from Bears to try, because I thought maybe he used a different type. I have not installed it yet, but It looks the same to me.

Since my first post on this subject,I made 2 more cups,I made one with flashing material, that I soaked in vinegar and rubbed with still wool to dull. And the second with lexan and glued it in with high temperature rtv. I no that the one with lexan will probably warp eventually.Even if it does it will be very easy to remove,and I should be able to reuse the cup. So far so good. Thanks for the advice on this,I value all of your advice,as most of you have been doing this for some time.

I have heard from several of you that you mostly just do reheats, in the microwave,and for only 20 to 30 seconds at a time.I was under the impression that once you dulled the metal that you could use the divided cup safely for original heat ups. Thanks for the personal messages,they have helped me alot.

I made a divided cup using flashing and jb weld, and it worked fine for about 4 heat ups, before it sparked just as the timer was going off on the microwave. I have looked it over for a more shinny spot,and can not find where it sparked. Should there be a black place on the metal? Is there something more I should look for? I really worked the metal over with still wool and vinegar and thought I had a good job.Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the tip,Senkosam, I will give that a try.

Cadman,braided line last for a very long time,the line will get a little fuzzy looking and discolored after a while. But even when it does, it is still very strong.As far as making grooves in your rod guides and tips,I haven't had that problem.I think that many of the newer rods are made to handle the braided line,because of it's poularity. It can be a pain to cut sometimes, if you get caught with out a good pair of scissors,or a very sharp knife. They make a new line cutter that heats up and cuts it slick as a whissle. I think it runs off of batteries. I have cut off some of my braid from time to time,but only when it looks worn really bad,but even then it is very tough. The hardest thing for me to get used to is the no give in the line,you might want to go to a little more limber rod,I was flipping the little fish over the boat till I got used to it. I'm sure it wears out like any thing else,but it will last several times longer than any other line Iv'e ever used. Hope this helps a little,I'm sure there will be a lot of diferent opinions,but this is my 2 cents.

Thanks to all the great people of this site, I have finally been able to sucessfully make a few 2 color injection baits. Even with the help of many of you I still made alot of junk,before I got any good baits to turn out. I still make alot of mistakes,like some how I posted a Thank you today,and some how sent it to the wire baits forum. Most have hit the wrong key. The amount of information on this site,makes it possible for people like me who didn't no where to start,to eventualy have success. Thanks again for every ones help.

I have been reading the forums for quit some time.I have been tring to inject 2 colors at the same time. And even after trying to use your tips have had my share of failures. But finally,I have made several perfect 2 color pours. I want to thank every one on this site for being so sharing,with there information. The members here are a great bunch. I'm soo glad I found this site.

Thanks ,Frank, I will give him a call.

I looked through dels site and did not see them,but will look again. I no this does'nt have to do with this subject ,but have you gotten the two color injection down pat now? I'm still hsving problems. thanks alot earthworm 77

I have some senko type worms that I bought somewhere that has a slot in the worm for the hook to travel through so you don't have as much plastic to go through. Does anyone no of anyone selling that mold? Iv'e had these for a while and don't no where I got them. I really would like to find a mold like this.

Sorry, I should have re read what I wrote,before sending it out. You do not ever need to bake for 30 minutes at a time.The chart I have, Pro tec puts out, says 10 to 20 minutes depending on the color.

I have been making jigs for 20 years or better. I did use liquid paint for years until they came out with powder paint.When I first started using it, I thought that I new how to use it.and only heated the head of the jig with a torch and let it set up and then used it.From time to time I would chip it and alot of the paint would come off at one time.I finally read the instructions on how to apply it ,and you can take a jig painted in powder paint, thats been applied properly,and throw it on a concrete floor and you will dent the lead,but knock off very little if any of the paint. It is by far the best paint in my opinion. After you heat the jig, and dip it in the paint,you need to put it in a oven for 15 to 30 minutes at 325 degrees,actually the color of the paint has to do with the degrees and how long. I have a chart for all colors,but it does not hurt it to cook alittle longer ,so I use 20 minutes at 325 degrees. It is soo simple to use,and a jar goes along way.

The action does vary between the size of the bills on the scrounger. The shorter bill gives alittle tighter wiggle than the medium or long bill,but the biggest atvantage is the shorter bill is easier to run at a greater depth,than the longer bill.If both are being pulled at about the same speed, the shorter bill will run alittle deeper,if you are using the same trailor on each.

I do no that we have had several temp fillimg in for my usual carrier. But,I can't accuse someone with out proof. I did call it to our postmasters attention. I too have not had that problem here before.