Les Young

After learning the safety part of it & starting to make lures write every recipie down on every lure you make even if in the same colors because thickness of plastic will make appendages look totally different between different lures. If you use sand cast or artificial stone molds you may also need to tweek recipies to get the look you want. Although there is a learning curve it's actually easy after you get the concept down. Another pointer is have fun & take your time when buying molds so you'll get exactly what you want because it can get expensive real quick like. Ask about anybody here that's been at it a while.

I liked it when we could get it in 1 gallon jugs from you Leonard & don't want to deal with 5 gallon buckets or i'd order some myself because i sure liked it.

First off i have a basstackle twinjector & a single 6 ouncer too, but I also have a Ukranian twin injector too that after shooting is extremely hard to remove the tips after shooting. It's almost like the actual tube could be contracting while cooling off after shooting. I thought about trying different orings since they look like standard black orings. I also thought about taking a chain saw file & making a small groove in each tube to see if that helps. You litterally have to strain really hard to remove them & have to push against the bench to put them back on. I'm just wanting to see if i can cure it because i'm not going to use it & thought if there was a safe way to cure it that i may possibly let another member here that's interested in making laminates have it really cheap since i don't use it anyway. Any suggestions? Thanks

Joel, i just looked & Curt has a more plain style 3 & 4inch, but if you'll look in the lower left corner you'll see a 3 " with fins etc. that looks pretty good. Another thing about Curt is his stuff is usually very affordable too.

Joel, send Curt at enforcer a message. I was just reading something the other day about goby molds he was getting ready to put on his site.

I’d try to get some more opinions. They’re are some guys on here that are outstanding at knowing what colors do what. I know what I said will get you very close though, but somebody may have a better idea.

Maybe a smidgen of yellow & brown?

Try a drop at a time to reach the shade needed. I use lureworks colorants so thats the names of what i'd use For the top i'd try a small amount of green pumpkin sp 156 & for the bottom the same in either amber 114 or gourd 172 with either a very small drop, skewer tip or something like that of the same green pumpkin. Remember that there is salt in the bait pictured so you can always do that too.

Cool find. I just use the plastic squeeze type & slide bars from harbor freight & walmart. They're cheap & i have enough that i can clamp any mold i have & not get any flashing.

I'd ask Josh at angling ai. I never use mine because i have a bunch of cheap plastic spring clamps from walmart & use them & some cheap slide bar clamps too. . Makes things less of a job & less time consuming when shooting molds. Most everbody does this that i know of.

i use pin flags cut to the length i want & then hand dip in whatever color i want. I then place them in my senko mold & inject the outer color & when cool i pull the pin flag wire out. Easy enough to do for a simple core shot bait. I'm going to try it on the midwest finesse mold & the ripper swimbait & see what i come up with.

Without a doubt. Use to be pretty big into another hobby that was a side business too. I made out pretty good by worrying about myself & recommending to others what i thought would suit what they were looking for better if i didn't think i had it. I also got a lot of high recommendations because of it by some of the major players in that same business & made some friends along the way too. You can't beat that with a stick.

Yep keep recipies for every bait & every color that you make because things like thickness of plastic, amount of salt if used & cnc , sandcast or stone molds will all have a different finish so you may end up tweeking your recipies to achieve the look you're after.

Those are nice Glenn.

There's a thread on Lonestar baits soft plastic recipies now & there's also the soft plastc cookbook sticky at the top of this soft plastics forum that you're on now. Yes you can mix other companys plastics together.You however can't mix Zman baits with normal plastisol lures. I've heard that powerbait will pop & doesn't want to remelt well, but i've never tried it myself.

Sounds like it another good option if needed.

Good idea Glenn.

Guys I would also consider a 2” Shad style crappie lure mold in on these molds if somebody has some of the essential worm & beaver molds they would be interest in trading too. Thanks

Josh does custom work so i'd assume he would. Send him an email & he'll get back with you.

Must be. I've tried several times over the last few months & same thing.

Does anybody have the 7" ribbon tail worm mold & the beaver bug ( sweet beaver ) mold in the essential series? I have a few of them now, but don't have these specific molds. I personally have been very satisfied with them so i thought about either selling or trading some cnc molds for some if i can find these exact molds.

Oh yeah been there done that with the phone & also walking around & getting pretty aggravated while looking for a tool only to end up finding it in my hand.

53 here, but eyesight is the one thing i've never had any problems with.

So Bryan, are you thinking maybe i'm needing to make an appointment with an eye doctor? Not being able to see that i'm wondering.