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Jaw

Chrome Finish On Crank Baits

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Ok searched for mirror chrome finish on previous posts should have done this first but hadn't navigated the site before I read the comments about spax sticks which I have tried already on my on if you could take the bait body apart and work from the inside with the black backer it would be an easy mirror finish this is how the model cars are done I had ok results just by coating the lure with epoxy and shooting it with just the mirror chrome finish then the chrome clear coat has anyone tried the spax stick with good results any help would be greatly appreciated

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Unless someone is doing something and not talking about it most of us use foil when looking for a reflective finish on baits. I know it's not as shiny or reflective as chrome, but unless your willing to spend the bucks to have a chrome finish professionally applied it's about the best you can do. I've seen some chrome paints for sale on the 'net, but the ones I've seen are fairly expensive and I'm not sure how well they work. There are a few unpainted lures on the 'net for sale that have a chrome finish, but I can't remember where I saw them at the moment. I'm sure somebody will know about these and can tell you where to find them.

 

Ben

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Thanks for the feedback the spax stick is expensive around 13dollars for a small bottle can't remeber how many ounces and the mirror chrome requires 3 bottles (black backer,mirror chrome, chrome clear coat) I can't remember if all were the same price but it still gets expensive when your experimenting with the process I haven't worked with it in awhile got frustrated and took a break I will check out the other links that were left thanks for the info haven't been doing any hard baits for the last year been playing around with jigs and umbrella rigs and trying to get a fluid bed built with an aquarium pump not really satisfied with the results may have to break down and buy one or airbrush for powder paint not sure which would be best

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Stretch chrome at $8 per square foot + shipping ain't cheap!  And how thick is the film?  Honestly, it seems to me that adhesive foil like Brite-Bak would be equally good, probably easier to apply, and cheaper.  You might also experiment with applying a mylar foil from a space blanket to a lure.  It is probably the closest look to actual chrome electroplating.

Edited by BobP
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Didn't find the thickness of the stretch chrome film on their site but I have a friend who has a business doing wraps and trophys I'm going to check with him and see what the average thickness is and who knows he might even have some scrap that I could get cheap or free that I can experiment with thanks for the info

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Jaw, I use the metal duct tape you can get from a building supply, air conditioning company and lowes or Home depot, if you look and ask for it.

 

http://archeryrob.wordpress.com/2013/12/13/lure-foil-on-the-cheap/

 

If you pub it really good it will polish up even better. You can't do the scales and polish it later or, you flatten out the scales.

Edited by archeryrob
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Thanks I picked up some of the foil ductape and I've got some foil material in my fly tying stuff that I may try appreciate the reply thanks

 

 

FYI - Not sure what your using for your top coat but I foiled a couple baits with the self adhesive foil tape from home depot and GST didn't like it. It wrinkled it real bad. I had no problems with etex though.

 

 - Bryan

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Are you currently using lacquer paints Jaw? The info on the Alclad website said it was a lacquer and they don't play well with paints that aren't lacquer. There are some water based lacquer paints, but I'm not sure if they can be used with water based paints or not. If your using water based paints it might be worth checking into before you spend money buying the Alclad paint and then try to use it over paints that aren't compatible.

 

Ben

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I have used laq before and still have some I like the finish but hate the fumes thanks for the heads up I will have to investigate more I haven't used alclad paint before usually use createx , model air, testors I also ordered the component systems airbrush paint last year I believe it is laq been awhile since I used it I have a specific airbrush (cheap) I use for laq

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Probably won't tell his secrets I've come close to a good mirror chrome finish but it's fragile if you get any over spray from your accent colors or clear goes on to thick mirror is gone but I haven't tried to get the finish I want since last year haven't given up yet though thanks

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Just wanted to chime in on this whole chrome thing.  I really like chrome but getting commercial lures in chrome is chancy at best and doing it yourself has been questionable.  I offer the following for your use...... for whatever it is worth.

 

http://i1151.photobucket.com/albums/o62 ... _04692.jpg

The above link is to a photo of what I have been able to do so far with chrome paint. I do not promise that it will work underwater, but I do promise that I have tried many time to get it right. I also do not yet have the "clear coat" mastered.

I have found that you should have as much of a gloss black base coat as you can, and as smooth as possible.

I have found that Krylon Fusion does not give me a smooth, or a high gloss, coat on many plastics, but it adheres very well to plastics. Nevertheless, it pairs well with Krylon Metallic when used as a base. The use of Krylon Metallic, with the Chrome lid, seems to work very well. My wife considers this the best result.

I have found that Rustoleum Gloss Black yields the most smooth and the most gloss of the base coats I used. This base yields the best results for Alcad 2 Chrome (Lacquer Airbrush paint), and I find this to be the best result. I also find that Alcad 2 without a Black base coat works very well, as long as it is painted on a smooth plastic. Still, I find that Rustoleum Gloss Black is not as resistant to other paints eating through it. Spray light coats and more of them.

I have tried many options, taken pictures and given results on most of it, and I show it in the links below if you want to follow them. Enter the web site and look at the album and sub albums called "Chrome studies for lures".

http://s1151.photobucket.com/user/aka-a ... t=3&page=1

What I can tell you is that it is a Lacquer or enamel paint. It is as resistant to scratches and teeth as a paint can be. It is NOT as good as a clear coated lure, but my first test with a clear coat were not promising. I will not give up but ............

I can tell you that chrome is difficult to achieve. I looked into a company that uses the new applications where you apply a sensitizing solution, a silvering solution, and a clear coat. Brands like HydroMist, Spectra Chrome, Reprochrome, etc., come to mind. You can find them on YouTube and even Jay Leno showed one of them. The results are and were incredible, but the process is expensive for the small guy to do. I know, it is at least too expensive for me. Nevertheless, I got an interesting response from one of them.....

"This process is UV resistant, we have UV inhibitors in the clear coat. All the rules apply to regular painting. With this process you are putting a real layer of silver in between two layers of paint. The color of chrome is in the clear coat. There is a 200 degree heat tolerance, so it is not meant for an exhaust or engine block. This process is as durable as a painted finish on a car."

Sooo, "the color of chrome is in the clear coat" and "is as durable as a painted finish on a car". icon_idea.gif I have tested several of my commercial lures, purchased as chrome, and they are no more durable then the chrome paint used above. There is a way to actually use chrome to plate plastic, but I can only test so many things at a time.

More will follow, in time, if I come up with more results. But for now........ well look how long it took to get back to everyone on this one. icon_redface.gificon_lol.gif

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