woodieb8

old flatfish company was 5 miles from my home. the kwikfish was 1 mile away. as for the aussies,they make some tru beautys.Hazmail,has shown some true creations and how to build threads over the years. always enjoyed and read his posts. a tru builder and tinkerer,if that's a real word.

if you cant solve it thru the resin supplier heres a tip. purchase lepage wood fill in tube,thin it a wee bit. spread over bait and light sand to fill the pinholes. that's a problem with resins and foams..

we do one side at a time here.

dremel ,a sander,.theres always toys to buy lol.

our body baits hang by wire on a rack. painting 6 of a color we can go over each lure .using fast dry paints when using templates there set on side on an easel type board ,squirt 1 side when all done flip and repeat..sounds strange but that's how its done here. ,spinner blades are racked on pins and sprayed 250 on a rack.

we build baits in many aspects. molded baits,and lathe baits to flat sided bandsaw baits. one major factor is WOOD. even after 40 years of this craziness I still feel wood is the holy grail.theres always a magic bullet in every batch of handbuilt wooden lures..thats what every fisherman seeks lol..as for pricing lol. yes years ago 1.99 was big money for a lure.,usually those were in dads box and you could only look and not touch.

we have had mixed results with foils.as hazmail stated. if we need to put several coats over it sometimes the weight will affect bait action in water.. love the looks hate results after a few fish.

we lathe lures . that's easy .sanding while in the lathe .its flat side shads that get my hands.

build your master lure copy from that. we use table saws,bansaw for ruff cut. then belt sanders, and yes finish hand sanding. yep my hands hurt some days. repetition does take its toll.

we do custom contract painting. I have seen tonnage of junk from asia. its upsetting for my folks when we show them crap. from leakers to substandard wire hangers a child can crush. as stated before know your supplier...saving money on imports can actually destroy your business, you have to protect your name.

as mentioned rusteolum white primer . its fairly fast dry. you can use any paints over it,water,alkyd,lacquer based..let it set for an hour.

were lucky. we test in Detroit river. gotta wash your hands after that. lol.

I never tried it without primer..,my cured urethanes brownish,so we use white primer on all bodies.

far ago I joined. try to help guys out. it really is a gr8 site WHY cause guys think outside of the box. that's whats so cool..im old school. what I enjoy is watching folks get into creating. sure glad the moderaters give us lotsa freedom. ..thanks again from Canada.

we mic glitters in clearcoat. get a airbrush bottle add micro glitter with clear. use a large airbrush tip. put a ball bearing in bottle with clear. shake to keep glitter suspended..i spray at 40lbs....wear respirator with blower system running.

joe flo ,is empty now. .there all gone at his store.

we did a larger body mock up with several changes.. then we built a cnc program and cut molds.

foams can be fickle. I'm pouring another gallon this week. up here in Canada we pre-warm the mold noe. colder temps,improper expansions.

you are on your way into a great adventure lol...

hi we use smooth on 15lb foam. .mix well in an atmosphere above 72 degrees. .when poured rotate your mold. foams are gassy remember that. we use a good release,wax based in our aluminum molds. ..toachieve a good finish its about your paint process. .yes it holds screws very well. just cover screw threads with a little epoxy and insert. amazing but fickle stuff till you learn the curve. life cycle of open jugs is short. we pour a gallon in 3 days never had issues. watch for the brown resin to go bad . the clear part holds up. moisture is a killer when left in jugs over time..picture below shows a finished body.

a beauty right there.

yes lacqyuer paints. if you use enamel paint you will have a mess. .remember this. you can put enamel paint over lacquer,,,but never lacquer over enamels.

first coat dry at least 1 hour. clear cellulose/laquer will eat/bond to paint. the 2nd coat I would wait till next day to avoid,running of clear or having the clear eat into the paint itself and cause an issue.

shine is fine. if you dip second coat let bait dry overnite first.