Musky Glenn

This might not apply to custom fancy work, but, outboard motor factory colors are available in spray cans from the motor dealerships and do not require clear coating to match the original color. Works good for me. Musky Glenn

That photo clears up a lot of questions and throws my ideas out the window. I agree with Mark Poulson on the easiest way to make the holes. A holding jig for the lure part would make for consistent duplication of the boring process. I have a question concerning the through pin, how far is it from the front or back end of the lure? Musky Glenn

As I have never made one, I would think it might work to cut the notches while the stock is still square. I would make a jig to stand the piece up right and cut it with a table saw for accuracy. Or I would cut it on a band saw for ease, but not quite as accurate. And it could be I am missing the whole concept without knowing the type of joint you intend to make, I'm assuming a simple finger joint with wire through for movement. They also make a dove tail attachment for a router that would make a tight fit which could be sanded looser. Then there is the hand saw straight cut and chisel out the rest of the wood. Could you show a sample of the type joint you intend to use. Musky Glenn

Size D thread works good for me. Try Mudhole or Lure Parts on Line. Musky Glenn

Where are true Lucky Craft lures made? Musky Glenn

They usually say about the same as milk. Musky Glenn

I paint when ever I get a chance regardless of weather. The hair dryer seems to take care of my needs. But then it only has to please me, but I have not had any problems. Musky Glenn

My largest bass came on a buzz bait with painted on eyes. Next largest was on a Fluke "baby bass" with no eyes. I wouldn't get hung up on eyes as the main attractant. Musky Glenn

Fish with teeth, That shelf liner trick works better than double surface tape, Ease of application. Musky Glenn

If rounding over flat sided baits, give double sided tape a try. Start with router and small round over and progress to desired shape on one side. Remove bait from tape and turn lure over using a new piece of tape. Don't try to reuse the same tape. Worked in our cabinet shop for small moldings and parts. Important, always go counter clockwise around the lure. Musky Glenn

Rayburn Guy, How many lures do you make? For yourself or sell? These decisions make a difference on how good a band saw you need. Remember a band saw does Rough work and sanding to the line, as stated, is always necessary. Having had students buy cheapo to extravagant band saws, the two most important things that gave them trouble was parts and replacement blades. Get a band saw that has a common size blade and a network for replacement parts. We once had a great sander in the shop, but parts had to come from China, no good. If you are just working on your own stuff, probably be hard to beat Sears for parts and blades availability. Sure didn't say they were the best. Read carefully the adjustments that control the side and back movements of the blade. Those adjustments make for an accurate cutting bandsaw. I'd spent the extra money on a drum type sanding attachment for the drill press or one of the air inflatable sanding drums that fit a turning lathe. Just my 2 cents worth. Musky Glenn

It depends a lot on how good of a system of air lines you have. I spray for about three hours and fill my tank two or three times, BUT I have some leakage at various places counting the Badger gun leaks some air all the time. I am not spraying all that time either, a lot of prep work goes on also. I would say if you didn't do anything buy spray with no leak situation, you could spray dozens. Just a guess because I don't spray in a hurry, did I mention I am retired. You wouldn't believe how cheap a compressor you can get by with if you are not in a hurry. They still make bicycle hand air pumps that will give you 30-40 pounds easy, and into a large enough storage tank that would last quite a while. Most of my spraying is done set on 20 pounds, but as soon as I pull the trigger it drops a few pounds and I am really spraying at a lower pressure than that. I'm waiting for someone to convert a water storage tank, like used on a house with a well, some of those things are twenty gallons. A length of schedule 40 plastic 3" water line with caps on each end and a couple of fittings would hold a lot of air. All it takes is the right combination of air fittings. Napa auto parts or Harbor Freight have what you need. A new portable air storage tank is like $30.00 bucks, plus regulator. Musky Glenn

The wooden lures that I paint are repaints so I don't have to test. I just sand to bare wood (if they need that much sanding) and apply createx white for the base coat, paint and I use d2t. So my finish is a little different process than yours. Not better, just different. When I taught cabinet making I was next door to an auto body shop (instructional shop) and they always paid a lot of attention to mixing different kinds of finishes. I got to noticing with the wood finishes that some finishes bonded good to certain types of finishes and some didn't. (Personally I never liked the idea of putting an oil base (Not correct term) over a water base anything.) I like the idea of using Createx finish over the Createx paint, but I have never tried that, as d2t is hard to beat. That is just my $.02 worth. Furniture finish Polyurethane lays over the top of each coat and builds up one coat at a time. Some times you can flake it apart one layer at a time. Lacquer furniture finish actually desolves part of the previous coat and forms one new coat and seldom have delamination. But furniture lacquer won't hold up to moisture at all, water spots under a cold glass are common. It will turn white while spraying if the humidity is to high. I still use the Createx and d2t and just don't have a problem, if I get it brushed on correctly. I don't thin it, but I do try to brush it out and not leave it thick. I don't use a turner and don't have problems unless I leave it to thick. I am building a turner, my eyes aren't what they used to be. The other guys on here have better ideas how to get a good finish than I do. I'm 66 and learned to spray with a single action spray brush and I just can't get the hang of using a double action. I have an Iwata that is a much better brush than my Badger. I can't seem to manage that air and paint control at the same time. Any suggestions, and I have spent hours on you tube watching many great painters make it look so easy. Musky Glenn

jHodgie, I suspect the water based urethane is not water proof. Try taking a scrap piece of lure stock, take an accurate measurement of it and coat it with as many coats of urethane as you generally use. Let it set in water for an hour and then take another measurement to see if it has swollen from taking on water through the finish. Why an hour, equals trolling conditions. If the size doesn't change the problem is probably some where else. We had this problem in the shop because of the difference in humidity from day to day. This would play havock with the lumber stock. Musky Glenn

I believe you have got some old paint. Musky Glenn

Does the lure run right or left before it starts to roll? Have you tried adjusting the line tie by bending it right or left? Musky Glenn

I guess it would be best to say that I only paint for myself and don't do large quantities of brushing. But when I do spray, I spray for several hours at a time. I have a large 220 volt air compressor that I choose not to us. Instead I use a small Sears air compressor that I run to a portable air storage tank. The type you might carry to blow up a spare tire. From there it goes through a seperator/regulator then to the air brush. I tried to spray with the air bottles that you can buy, but that sure didn't work for me. I usually spray with the regulator set on about 20 pounds, but more often than not am spraying at a lot lower pressure when I pull the trigger. I plug and unplug when the pressure dropps, usually twice during 3 hours of spraying. I don't like the sound of the air compressor running when I am trying to think about the spray gun. Musky Glenn

I compliment you on your wood and metal working skills, job well done. I have the same turner laying in the basement that has been waiting to be made into a turner. This will motivate me to do something along this same line. I don't recognize the "bolts" that are used on the left piece of plywood. The ones slotted to accept the lure end, opposite the spring. Thanks for posting. Musky Glenn

Murphy's law, even a new regulator can be bad. Musky Glenn

If a lure has a lip, I believe sand blasting will turn it white/milky looking. I don't believe it will hurt the lure otherwise. I scrape them with a knife blade and that works reasonably well, but not for the knife blade. Most lures I paint, I just wash and shoot, doesn't seem to give a problem. Musky Glenn

I order from Coastline Service Center, 706 N. William St. Goldsboro, NC 919-736-3859. Another good source is Outdoor World which is listed in the large Bass Pro Shop cat. Musky Glenn

How about a paint stirrer and use it in a variable speed drill and run it at any speed you like. Musky Glenn

I have a hard time finding d2t also. I have great luck with other brands as long as they dry slow (45-60 min.) and are clear in the package. I have been able to find water based paints in 2 oz. size for approx. .89 cents at craft shops and at Walmart in the craft section. Not trying to get you off lacquer, but water based works easier in my opinion. A bad green color may be just the ticket for some other pattern. I found some small air tight containers at AC Moore to store mixed colors and save for future lures. (These are mixes that didn't come out correct but could still be used on a different pattern. I usually use white for a base coat, but have had good luck using colors for some pattern base coats, you just have to watch the colors that will be going over the top of darker base colors. Mixing paint is a learning process or I wouldn't have so many future colors bottled and ready to go. Musky Glenn

Depends on the horse power of the motor. I have tried the cable and pully system and found it to be a little on the sloppy side for my application. I would recommend you go to a boat junk yard and take the rack and penion type steering system out of a boat. Check for needed length of cable first. Musky Glenn

This is the first web site I go to each day, always wondering what new ideas have been posted by some of the most friendly people in the world. Thanks for TU, it has really helped me out. Very little bickering for as much chatter as goes on here. Great site. Musky Glenn