eastman03

So i'm looking into making a pop mold based on recommendations, and I think that is a great idea for prototyping. And that way I don't have to skimp on a real silicone mold and have regrets. I'm just curious @Travis what you mean with some slight modifications? What do you think I would need to change to make a pop mold instead of a silicone mold?

Ok thanks for the advice. Talking about that vinegar smell, I know exactly what you mean. I probably have some of that stuff somewhere!

Ok interesting. Good idea. Thanks! Don’t want to skimp on a mold. This was part of a soft bait kit that came with a bit of everything. Gotta start somewhere!

Ok I have seen you tubers use chunks of their old molds in their new molds. However this is my first, so no extras. What exactly is acetic acid cure silicone? Pardon my ignorance. Google didn’t exactly give me any brands that looked like that.

So I’m finally going to make my giant hybrid paddle tail musky lure. My one problem based on my rough calculations is I don’t believe I have enough rtv silicone. It is going to be an open pour mold. It is flat on “top” (which is obviously face down here). So I’ll kinda seal it down to the base. Make a mold box, but as you can see because the boot part of the tail is so tall, most of the bulk of the mold will be wasted down the length of the tail just to get the depth. So my question is can I pour the silicone and simply put something in that area (like a block of wood?) to fill in some of the volume. obviously this isn’t the best option, and my apologies if this has been asked a thousand times. But mold making material is like hens teeth where I live, and I kinda don’t want to make a smaller tail lol. What do you guys think?

This is turning into a good old Canadian debate. We just need to apologize before stating our points. Haha. Sorry I think thru wire is better. But I have also had a fish break right through a thinner wire thru wire. So I see your point. Sorry.

Don't do it! lol, I always seem to play devils advocate on this. I could land 100 fish on a screw eye lure, but is it going to stand the test of time. All lures regardless of finish will chip and crack and start falling apart. After pulling lures around in frigid water, banging into rocks, catching some big fish, adjusting even a slightly bent eye after a battle, that screw eye will for sure get some water penetration, and eventual failure of the glue/epoxy bonding it in. Again most screw eye lures are probably fine for most of their lifetime, and lots of my favorite lures are screw eye type. But I've also lost a giant fish of a lifetime type Muskie thrashing at the side of the boat from a failed screw eye. Anyway, just my two cents. It also just bugs me that some very high priced well finished lures are still screw eye. If i'm buying a Cadillac car, I don't want crank windows, I want alllll the best features. Thru wire adds tons of complexity to the build overall. Very interesting picture overall here, but you tell me which lure you would trust with a 10lb largemouth? Or an accidental fish of a lifetime Muskie while bass fishing? Now I know these aren't screw eyes, but you get my point.

@mark poulson happened to see this after searching for the old screw eye/thru wire debate. I really like your idea of the swivel and the cross wire thru the wood. Does the swivel spin after you glue it in? or do you glue it solid in place?

Thru wire for lifeeeee!!!! I would never build anything else. haha. Seriously though we have talked about pros and cons over a few different pages. Here is a good one to read.. Or this one... Both methods have their time and place! And both can be done well. It's up to you to decide how you want to construct your lure and what components work best. I have absolutely had fish pull out a screw eye! For your particular application, it would seem that epoxied in eyes would work just fine! Much easier especially when prototyping as well.

@CoreyH Just so we are clear, that is not me in that youtube video! That is above my level of skill, the pictures are mine.

I bought this exact bbq rotisserie kit and it works great for me. I like the little weight that you can move around to counter balance if you need it. This one easily turns my big muskie lures. I believe most lure turners are 3-8 rpm. https://www.amazon.ca/Grill-Spot-Universal-Rotisserie-Grills/dp/B076X4PXK1 If you are making lures like crankbaits with lips, I would highly recommend a design like I made. It's super simple, and all you have to do is clamp the lip onto the wood, compared to the style where you have to suspend the lure between two wheels. But it can get as complicated as you want! My next design will integrate some sort of lure holder so I don't ever have to hold the lure kinda like this video (@ 1:50, this video is amazing btw!).

Hmm strange, works for me too.

Yea lots of options out there and it totally depends on what you are making and how many. Either way, it seems reading the lure forums every type of topcoat has its fans and detractors, and every method has it's own difficulties. As jcromerangler said, if you make lots of baits, KBS is probably the way to go, it seems like a great product. For me, making a handful of large muskie lures a year for myself, epoxy is the way to go (cheaper, availability near to me, no storage issues, great finish and strength). Getting a perfect finish with any epoxy can have its difficulties, just do your research and get good at the one you choose. There will always be a learning curve, and that might mean some bad finishes or storage issues or whatever. Just keep at it! @bobp yea I hear you about the heat, it really speeds up curing time. With a bar top epoxy like Etex, the working time to begin is so long that even heated (slightly), it still gives me at least 10-15 min to brush on, and that is after letting it "rest" after mixing for a few minutes. Also, I don't mean to get this way for off topic, but this was an interesting article I stumbled across a while back. It is an interesting read, and it was the reason I was primarily against thinning epoxy with chemicals (even though it is totally possible). Also instead of warming the epoxy, they suggest warming the wood. https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/thinning-west-system-epoxy/

Why would you thin the epoxy? Just curious. I use epoxy as a sealer before I paint, and as a finish and have never thinned it. If I want it a bit "thinner" I will warm it up a bit. I feel like adding any chemical to a carefully formulated epoxy will change or possibly ruin it's characteristics. Maybe I'm wrong.

I've never used the stuff, so I'm personally not much help. Most guys seem to say 2 coats gives you a higher gloss finish. The major issue with it is storage! Watch Jeckyll baits on youtube, she is a pro at using it and has a good tutorial about storing it.

Yea I'm not sure it's the best, but I do the exact same as @Hillbilly voodoo

Most likely white cedar. https://blog.history.in.gov/tag/creek-chub-bait-company/

Seriously, blows my mind. haha It seems so obvious when you think about it. But I've never really given this topic much thought. I've never really tried to make a neutrally buoyant lure. Great topic!

Mind blown! It makes sense when you think about it.

Really Vodkaman? Is that actually the case? You could very well be right. But there is some wood that is quite buoyant. And some wood that is naturally less. Like cedar is very buoyant. I think I’d need to make it much heavier than an equal maple lure to sink at the same rate. That blows my mind if you are correct!

The tig wire I use is 308 I believe. Not exactly sure that that refers to.