Outlaw4
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Posts posted by Outlaw4
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kbs is pretty good for light lures. i like tru coat for bigger stuff, and it thins well with DNA but you have turn them to level. Im actually just in the process of doing a swimbait with KBS over Tru coat to see if i can get just a tad harder shell
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have had good luck with KBS pouring out of the jar in a dixie cup or whatever then brushing it on. Brush on then hang with drip wire. Use this on most of our personal walleye stuff. I usually just make sure the can is cleaned off and use a piece of plastic wrap and put the lid back on. Nothing fancy.
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there is no wrong in fishing. fish and have fun. try some stuff. no absolutes.
like rapala "fixing" the wiggle wart
i think new and unusual, erratic movements will always get them if you can fish them efficiently.
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you can vacuum form polycarbonate. lots of video's out there on the subject. i think that'd be the best way to make a slightly more complex shape vs a roll or bend.
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this is from memory...and that's shakey at times so take that into account lol
lure was made famous on large charter boats that would take groups out and customers would cast out around the boat trying to catch walleye. its a great bait for counting down and catching suspended fish.
i believe the extra wire is just bite off protection, done this way for simplicity. no wire leaders needed, and not having to re-tie from bite off's from pike. i dont think is a specific requirement for this to be a fish catcher, might be better with a flouro leader in fact.
french blades give very even lift. so if you cast it, count it down to 10 ft, and steady retrieve it will tend to stay at 10 ft. this is also true on bucktail spinners.
colorado's will have more lift and thump, will need slower retrieve. Willows have less lift and more flash, will need a faster retrieve speed. so just tools to you to use.
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I primarily use wood but...
1. depends on. some wood ill prime if i want to fill in imperfections. but if I have details then i dont
2. depends on. some primer yes. i use a lot of clear bases then no.
3. depends on. what you are trying to accomplish with paint. best to let sit 24 hrs before clearcoat or so
4. depends on. big stuff i epoxy coat and turn. lots of small stuff i spray clear. KBS or UVLS high gloss.
there are very few absolutes. less is more most but not all the time.
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13 hours ago, mark poulson said:
I
I ballast the two sections separately to get them to fall level, and at the same rate. I do this with all the hardware and hooks installed, but not painted, so I can alter stuff without ruining the finished bait. I use Azek PVC trim board to build my baits, because it is totally waterproof, which lets me test the bait as much as I need to, and the trim board is as buoyant as medium balsa.
Once I've gotten the bait to that point, I take it apart again. I drop the two sections, side by side, in a bucket of water, and add ballast as needed to get them to fall at the same rate. I add additional ballast equally to both sections to get the rate of fall I want once the two sections fall correctly. I use 1/4" lead wire in 1/4" holes in the belly to add or subtract weight.
what do you use to ballast the trim board. can you pour lead into it? or do you have to glue it?
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here is another from the weekend. i spray between layers of paint, but plenty shiny and clear as a bell. im not sure if you'll ever get that glass look with spray you can with dipping.
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here is a 110 size jerkbait. this has kbs diamond clear (spray) between layers of creatix wicked paints, and a couple of finish coats. it goes on thin and cures fast, at least in my experience.
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we ran some Victory hooks this fall and had good results with them. id have to fish them a bit more for a 100% blessing, but worth a try if trying to save some $
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buy the wife a crikt. make all the stencils you'd ever need. win win
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3 hours ago, Flaswimbaiter said:
I have been using a flouro leader and loop knot for decades, it’s a habit I brought over from saltwater fishing. I believe the stiff leader and loop allows for more freedom of movement then a clip and split ring. We don’t really have toothy critter in Florida where I fish, except for gators. LOL
roger that i missed the loop. you should try a short wire, we get way better glide with something like a stealth tackle spring leader than any flouro leaders on small glides. it might surprise you
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nice catch. i noticed you are tied direct to the bait. have you always done this? i have seen glide baits that are very sensitive to this. maybe try with a split ring if you have not?
in pike water we use solid wire leaders on glide baits, it also makes a big difference in glide
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45mm is pretty small. I'd get a small rapala the same size and compare, to see if it's a user function or if its bait function. If the Rapala and your lure both dont do what you want then you'll have to work more on design.
I'd think at that size you could make big changes with suspend dots made by storm.
when you over power a lure they will blow out.
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im not sure how the tail affects things for sure, i know it can be tough to get a good glide with the tail.
the musky world is filled with one piece gliders, lots with grub type tails that glide nice. could maybe check one out. like a soft tailed phantom is a very good one.
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ive been using 2/0 & 3/0 owners and gami. i like the heavier hooks for plastics, more lite wire for live bait
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15 hours ago, 21xdc said:
I hate glitter over the eyes...
yes. i always use clear over the eyes and then mix the glitter in to do the rest of the bait. ive sanded out glitter and added a new top coat before lol
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On 8/11/2022 at 10:33 PM, eastman03 said:
I love adding glitter to a base coat. It may just be me, I don’t have much evidence. But I feel like it makes the base cost of epoxy more resilient to chipping/damage. Could that be possible?
yes. its like adding filler to epoxy. makes perfect sense to me
this winter i am going to work on adding titanium dioxide to epoxy base coats. hopefully get a white super hard base as the pigment kind of works like epoxy filler (i hope lol)
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i have a collins custom cnc and it makes nice jigs
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not sure about best but ive been using TrueCoat for a couple years and so far so good.
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i have been using the KBS aerosol spray on lots of stuff. So far its been pretty good at not flaking off and holding color. And i've had one can spraying stuff now for a while. I'd say you could do a lot worse
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anyone had success with glow paint? airbrush useable preferably?
wicked had a W212 transparent glow in the dark base, but i have never used.
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my 2 cents.
don't forget the rod in this equation. i think a mono rod and a braid rod are different things (actions). and the weight of the spinner is a factor for casting (power). So if you have a rod you want to use, that might be your deciding factor. If you have a super fast action or too heavy power, braid might not be the best, if you have a super parabolic, mono might not be the best.
maybe my musky background, but i'm going braid for an inline spinner. wire or flouro for a leader. pre-make leaders and tying them on while fishing is indifferent to tying anything on. i live in pike county and braid direct is a cut off nightmare in the making.
im adjusting for depth with spinner design and speed. colorado shallower, indiana, french, willow as need for depth increases. and combinations of those.
in the end i'd just experiment a bit and see what you like. in my experience its a bit of to each their own
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dip (thinned paints) for basecoats. still should do this way anyway maybe
hand paint everything else. most efficient use of paint. can paint to any level of detail required
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Design to get a nice walk on glide/jerkbait
in Hard Baits
Posted
most glides have a lot of belly weight, dropping the belly might help if it moves weight down. Does it sink level?