Outlaw4
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Posts posted by Outlaw4
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i think your on a fine track. but as others have stated you will just need to do a lot of R&D work to figure out the densities / weighting required for the size and shape and desired actions. So think out a plan of how you can build test baits that you can control the variables well, with a mind always how you can build one repeatable if you plan on selling.
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8 minutes ago, Travis said:
Easier, faster, better.... of course would to use cedar milled to the proper dimensions.
Now I guess you have an abundance of thinner stock to use so lets laminate.
Easier about the same but wood glue would be easier as no mixing needing so we gain a few minutes of time.
Faster Epoxy hands down as could turn a laminated piece in short order. Heck super glue and an activator is used by many turners to instantly bond waste blocks to in progress turned pieces and strength wise more than sufficient.
Better hmm.. what variable is the most important to you? Wood glue is cheaper, faster to apply, but slower to set. Strength doesn't matter as wood will fail prior to any glue/epoxy used. Water proof/resistance doesn't matter either in my book as you have one seriously compromised lure for a glue joint to fail due to moisture intrusion and don't think it is possible under normal fishing conditions to saturate a cedar lure enough to compromise the glue.
I'd actually be all for milled to exact specs (2"x2") kiln dried western red cedar in this case, but i have not found a place to get reasonably. So that leaves cutting down 4x4's myself or laminating 1x's.
If you have a good recommendation im all ears.
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Curious what guys were having the best luck with laminating wood. I need to laminate some cedar to make make some true 2x2's for some baits i need to turn. In the past i have always just epoxied them, but wondering if there is something easier, faster and better?
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Not a perfect solution, but for personal Marabou stuff sometimes i just order Mepps premade Marabou tails and make my own spinner sections.
IF you cant find black nickel, there are some automotive spray meant for tinting wheels that works good on silver blades. Its transparent but you can build in layers to get the desired effect.
Another thing I've done is use window tinting on them, sounds odd but similar to the prism tape some builders are using makes for a unique sound and color.
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I've not seen anything for spindle blanks. But there are plenty of CNC wood engravers that you could make half sides of crankbaits with to make mold masters. You could also probably make halves of any lure to though wire. I've contemplated this but never pulled the trigger and i just do low volume and like to carve lol.
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I would start out with a Master airbrush, and a basic pack of Wicked primary colors and a big bottle of Wicked reducer. Learn how to battle tip dry, spraying pressure and smashing needles and how to reduce, mix and blend paint. Paint a whole bunch of boards to figure out what you like to paint / figure out you style.
I paint with an Iwata Eclipse. It does detailed work better and easier as its more refined but i can paint anything I'd need to with a Master.
If money is no object skip right to the Iwata or similar. They are great tools.
I prefer to paint from a bigger air compressor. It runs less and i have one. make sure to run into a regulator with a water separator. All air compressors will get water in them and will always spit it out of your air brush exactly when you do not want it to.
Keep whatever airbrush you get clean. Buy cleaner, make cleaner (lots of home brews you can look up), just keep it super clean.
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another thing you might consider is you can isolate the paddle from the body to some extent with segmentation like the yamamoto zako. its very popular as a vibrating jig trailer as is doesnt mess up the vibration and yet still has tail kick.
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one thing to keep in mind on prop baits, in particular rear prop baits is to make sure the rear hook clears the prop or you may find it to stall on start up. need to space them back or heat shrink them straight
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im not sure there is such a things as too much wobble if its not unstable. wobble and kick in a paddle tail is good. id fish test it good before making too big a swing
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here is an example of where an intercoat could/should have been used, this is new plastic bait i am aiming to try out so i put a quick paint on it not so much worrying about details. I sprayed the white base coat, peal white over that, chartreuse back, and then the pink head. Heat set in between colors. But as you can see in this picture the pink still blended enough with the chartreuse enough to make it more orangey on the top of the head. If i had put an intercoat on before i spray the pink it would have stayed pink.
I like to use the kbs spray clear if its important not to blend the colors. Im sure there are many other good ways. An intercoat is also a nice way to "save" your progress, as if you make a mistake you can wipe off and not lose the whole bait.
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as stated template, draw the line, cut to the outside of the line, sand the line off. Only real way to make that work in my experience. Fine tooth blades for the saws help and just go slow. Having a template that is good is really important. I find if i get hasty in the setup it goes downhill quickly
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I just put some 60* Victory hooks in a custom jig mold designed for the Mustad 32786 and they fit fine and jigs turned out nice. Have not fished them yet but no bad ones in the samples i have.
Also put some light wire 90* red hooks in a do it ball head jig and those were good as well. Again not fished with yet but they made fine jigs. Was able to put over size hooks with no issues.
They seem sharp and if they are indeed able to keep fish pinned as designed i feel they will be a good additional option for people.
...should also note here i was specifically looking to try the V LOC technology, if it works it could make these an exceptional value
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of the one you listed Basswood will carve the best. Its really nice to cut and will hold screw eyes.
cedar is good, it carves fine and is arguably the best lure making wood.
you left out balsa and its not great for carving but it makes good lures, but needs though wire preferably, but not always
a lot of lures get made out of poplar and are fine. if you have some id use it as that is cool to use what you have
In general for diving plugs your lighter woods are best, balsa, basswood western red cedar etc...
top waters are pretty forgiving and is a good git for poplar, i prefer western red, or Alaskan yellow cedar here
gliders are a good spot for maple or other harder hoods
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late to the party on this one, but they are common with saltwater suppliers like...
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a number of the places that sell blanks also put the recommended parts lists in the descriptions would just have to check a few to find a close match.
like... https://www.lurepartsonline.com/LPO-Pro-Series-Hard-Body-Blanks
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wicked for me.
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15 hours ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said:
I do a lot of custom work, but not if you are in a hurry. I've got several months (about 4) backlog on the custom jobs board right now.
10-4 ill send you a mail
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i am looking to get a couple of custom CNC jig molds made and possibly a buzzbait head. anyone have any suggestions?
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its interesting. i have experienced attraction and triggering in several fishing situations, couple examples...
1. jig fishing - the jig is both an attraction and trigger lure that can be manipulated by the user. specifically talking vertical jigging here. large aggressive movements to attract, and small jiggly movements to trigger
2. musky glide baits - these are great attractors, fish love to come and check them out. if you are not moving fish a glide bait is a great way to see a fish. and they do trigger and catch fish as well but attracting is their specialty.
This all got me to thinking a bit more about making baits. I generally focus on lures as tools. To get a certain depth, to get through weeds, a certain sound, speed etc...more of if it moves it's food approach
So the video got me to thinking even with my lures as tools approach to bait making, i should probably also be paying attention more to attraction and triggering as tools as well, and is something that i might be able to dial into a bit more.
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very cool!!
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Watched this old Doug Hannon video the other day. In particular the first part where he is talking about attraction and triggering qualities of lures and what he prefers and why.
Curious what others here who build lures think of this and do you apply the methodology and if so how to the baits you build.
Doug Hannon - The Bass Professor - Catching Big Bass (1986)
Youtube wont allow me to embed the video but this is what it is titled if you wish to check it out.
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very cool. always fun to get a few on something new. if fish eat them you are usually onto something.
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only paints i pre mix are base colors where coverage is king
for all accent colors i do exactly as mark and mix in the bowl. i prefer this as depending on the particular detail im doing i may want more or less paint / reducer. Like i might thin down a gold pearl a lot if im just trying to get a sheen on something, or i might spary it straight if im doing dots
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19 hours ago, MT204 said:
How can it be (ya I know) in this day and age that skirts are only made in 1 or 2 places in the world?
Is the manufacturing so toxic that it can't be done in the US? Is there only one machine in the world? Is labor sooo much cheaper?
Seems as though there could be somewhere in the US they could be made.
this is all cost based, driven by labor and environmental rules in US. We are happy to keep US under regulation and let other countries profit and burn the environment from deregulated manufacturing.
Yes they could easily be made in the US, and if there was a profit model to do so it would be done.
Spinner and buzz baits
in Wire Baits
Posted
im voting other...safety pin style, get the containment of twisted and the flex of r bend