Outlaw4
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Posts posted by Outlaw4
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On 4/25/2021 at 8:49 AM, Hillbilly voodoo said:
Dave
moderate diver at about 8feet can definitely be made to hunt
a good example of a deep diver "hunter" is a reef runner 800. a lot of people dont like as they are "unstable" and "hard to tune". they are a walleye trolling staple for me
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I work for a large company in a product development role.
I can tell you this, the bigger the company the less they care if the product "works" right. What they need to do is sell stuff profitably good bad or otherwise. Most have great ideas internally that never see daylight due to timing, market or whatever.
Personally if i had a great bait that i could reproduce consistent quality catches and is manufacturable, you'd be better off doing an LLC. There is enough power in social media these days to not need the big companies anymore. Its a great time for entrepreneurs imho.
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i have a master and it does not spray as well as my iwata does, but i can paint stuff with it. It generally likes a bit more pressure and is a little fussier with tip dry. I use it with the 05 needle mostly
...and should add i have to thin paints with it a bit more it as well, thats not a big deal to me i just mix it in the airbrush bowl with a toothpick.
for $30 id have no issue buying one to see if i like airbrushing if you are on the fence. Otherwise its a good investment to buy a good one to start. i see no way to lose in this one
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i just got some new blades laser cut for some globe baits im making. hopefully will have a batch done here in not too long
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anyone have some good techniques to paint light over dark. have a few patterns where i want to put lighter dots / stripes over black, so far the black seems to really suck up the light color if / when sprayed right over the top. Would an epoxy layer in between help? or is just a layering deal?
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what do you guys use for pins, and how do they stay in?
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Lures are tools. Good tools lead to efficiency. Efficiency leads to better results. Having the right tool at the right time is priceless. Sometimes, that's a crank bait.
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try to solve a problem. example...i like X bait but the hooks always tangle, or whatever. i like creeper baits but they generally need to be fished slow so i am working on one i can fish faster.
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just curious as i didnt see mentioned, but i see there are fairly defined lines on the baits, were they possibly taped where it left some adhesive residue? i have had that happen in other painting situations before
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8 hours ago, mark poulson said:
Between a rasp, a file, and some sandpaper, I can usually a lure smoothed and ready to paint in a minute or less.
if you guys really want to move material fast...and accurately...look up a Nitto Kohki belt sander (handheld). This is a professional grade finger sander but there are many cheaper options. If you are into fabrication of anything this is a great home / professional shop tool.
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i cant say for sure on Rapala...but is suspect it has something to do with their body (belly) taper. This is something pretty consistent on all of their baits, that you do not see on everything. there is no doubt when you look at SOME of the big brand baits there is a lot of R&D $$ in them.
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19 hours ago, exx1976 said:
The 404 appears to have been the hot ticket.
Still have a couple things to sort out with my application method, but this attempt came out far better than I could have anticipated. I'm quite pleased.
This is most assuredly FAR more time consuming than screw eyes. I plan to charge accordingly.
you should also maybe look also at the 406. I personally have not used but i think its designed application might suit lure building better than 404. I use 404 as i have alot of it from other marine projects. There are a couple others in the 400 line id like to try when i get a chance.
Keep up the pursuit of perfection. I do the same in my lures. At this time I only make for myself and a few friends but was also driven by a desire for high quality i was not able to buy.
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Use epoxy filler. It thickens up specifically to do what you are hoping for and is really strong. Very common in the marine industry. If you look at like the West system 400 line (i use 404) there are multiple densities. There are also many other manufacturers that do the same thing.
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42 minutes ago, AZ Fisher said:
Cut the lip slot when you still have the square ends attached to the body, right after it comes of the lathe. I use a table saw. If you already have round bodies now, I would use BobP's method to orient your slot and use a bandsaw or a small hand saw to cut the lipslot.
I thought about this or how to do this and as for lip accuracy i think its good. I was hoping to spin test in the tank to find the bottom before i cut the lip slots, not sure how that would go with the square ends on. However the lip placement is priority to the roll test i think for a crank bait. This is worth a test for sure.
I did watch a video of a guy ripping a a flat on a round bait, then cutting the lip slot on table saw. he had round ends left on from the lathe and if i was good with the small flat that'd work pretty good.
Another option i had floated in my head was to make "jig" ends that were square, with a hole in the middle so that i would screw on on each end of the round body, then could cut on band or table saw after a spin test.
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One way you can mark the center lines perfectly accurate, or as accurate as your tools is to use a height gauge scribe. Before laser cutters this is how we laid stuff out in metal fab. You need a good level surface and the gauge.
One other thing i tried was laminating two sides, this also gives you a nice center line. Trouble i found there was that the laminating epoxy i was using was more difficult to drill into than the wood so it was also difficult to stay on line.
Now i kind of like to roll with laminated thru wire.
IF...you had all the other processes down, you'd just have to add the wire bending and gluing stage but those are very productionable steps
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Anyone have a slick way to cut lip slots into a round bait accurately? Wanting to make some 6" trolling plugs, i turned some nice cedar blanks but stuck a bit on how to get the lips in nice and straight now with the round tapered bodies.
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10-4 thanks.
Its odd as for me it follows Owner hooks. Same for me with buzzbaits...i did a few of those this weekend and had fits with the Owner hooks and no issue with VMC's both 5/0's.
I'll have to get some more and try a few things.
I thought about the demolding thing and actually left some in the mold over night and those were loose as well, and i ladle poured those i was kind of surprised they were loose.
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Pouring some jigs with Owner Hooks, having an issue with the lead not wanting to bond to the hook. Thoughts?
Using a Lee PPIV, dial on 8. Pure lead.
On a few of the ones that were loose i tourched off the lead and repoured and then they were fine. Is there something with the coating on hooks maybe?
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Have a guy wanting some shiny gold jigs. is there any powder coats that get a "chromed" look to them? Or other good ways to get?
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Found some videos and looks like Smooth On Mold max 60 would work well but is a little tough to find and shipping from a few places that had it was as much as the product. It is kind of designed for tin / pewter hobbies by the looks of it
Alumalite has amazing mold putty which they actually have a video of pouring lead into so maybe that is the way to go for a simple mold, but would defiantly be limited to a top pour probably.
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What is the easiest material to make a prototype lead mold? I am wanting to build a somewhat flat planing style buzzbait head that is heavy enough to run through reeds well, but also will plane and stay up somewhat easily. Their are a couple of produciton ones that do this ok but want to make a few mods for myself.
I was thinking of maybe making a master out of clay and molding with RTV? Is there an RTV that works decent with lead? Thinking maybe just an open pour type mold might work.
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Put the weight closer to the hook, like an egg sinker or such. On baits like the Blue Fox musky buck we used to use rubber core sinkers added to the shaft for casting distance and being able to speed reel them.
I make alot of inlines and can attach a picture later, but if you google musky bucktail you will see.
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Thanks!! Found a solution
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Anyone know of a good mold for a jerk minnow? Similar to Kalins jerkminnow / jr. Personal use only so lower # of cavities would be ok.
Two days, what do I make?
in Hard Baits
Posted
if your coming to MN you NEED a topwater, a walk the dog or tail prop or popper are all fun projects.