RiverSmallieGuy

Haha... Wisdom from a teenager lol.

Suick's are just Suick's lol. They are their own category...

I know, drag and vortices cause action with lures.

Other words, drag determines most actions with walkers. That helps.

Honestly, the best way to grow your lure company would be to come up with a completely unique concept that nobody has marketed or made and prove that it gets bit in certain situations that other baits that people commonly use in those situations wouldn't. Other words, innovation is the best way to go. Then, after you have your concept and you know it works, you need to protect your intellectual property, which is expensive. A lot of things have to go correctly to have a successful business. You need to learn a lot before you can sell baits. And, not only do your baits have to work well, they need to look good too. Your baits need to catch fish and fishermen.

Based on what I have seen, Janns is among the best prices.

floating jerkbait=minnowbait=floating jerkbait=minnowbait=floating jerkbait. potato patahto same thing haha

I have heard that the Candy 2.0 colors are very good for lure making. Not as good as the wicked stuff, but its good.

If it floats, I would call it a minnowbait, if it is a suspender, I would call it a jerkbait.

I know that placing most of the weight at the tail will give you a wide walk, but at the same time, it would put the tail down in the water more, or at least I think so. What I have noticed with the walking lures I have made is that if you put most of the weight at the tail and a little bit in the lowest part of the belly, I will get that walking action where the head completely turns around. I also think that a lure with very large, protruding carved gills will help with that because the water could vortex off the sharp edge of the gills force the head to the side more. I have also made topwaters that have a mouth like the Roman Made Mothers and the Negotiators, and found that it limits the width of the walk it causes it to pop and spit. Another thing that I believe is that if you make the lure's body thinner and less chunky, it will result in a wider walk because it is more hydrodynamic. If you make your bait too tall, then it will roll a ton as well. How should I combine all of these factors to get a bait that does what I want it to do?

LureCraft sells plastic colorants. Jacquard's Pearl Ex sells plenty of beautiful pigments as well.

Yeah, spook style baits are my favorite technique, especially for creek/river smallmouth. What I have noticed, however, is that generally the tighter, quicker walking lures get more bites, but the slower, wider walkers get bigger bites. I tend to associate this with drawing power, just like a 2pc glider-- the wider the walk/glide, the more drawing power. How do I get a super wide walk, because I kinda know how to achieve it, but not completely. If you look at baits like the Megabass Dog-X Speed Slide, which has a super smooth, wide walk, and Quick Walker, which has a super aggressive snapping darting action that is far tighter than the Speed Slide and they have the same body, but walk completely different. I think this is partially because of how they sit in the water, the Quick Walker sits at roughly a 45 degree angle on the surface, and the Speed Slide sits at roughly a 20 degree angle.

Also, does wood buoyancy affect this? I have a lot of balsa and basswood, but don't know which one to use. The clear coat is going to be BSI 30 minute Slow-Cure epoxy, with one thick coat. Gar are present in the waters I would fish for smallmouth in. Other than that, just bass.

What do you guys do for your topwater walkers to get an aggressive, super stable bait that will instead of just the zig-zag action, do the zig-zag but have not move forward a ton with each twitch. Some baits will literally travel farther because they are zig-zagging in a tight, but wide manner. I am saying tight in the sense that the bait doesn't move forward much on each twitch, but will dart far out to each side with minimal forward progress. I know that properly managing the slack in your line plays a big role in that, but is there a way to design the lure so that it is easier to get the lure to do that? Does line tie position or belly shape influence this? (Edit: I have done searches, but couldn't find anything on this specific topic.)

lol

lol

I have coated 3 lures, and I have not thinned it, and I have not had any issues with bubbles or anything. It is perfectly smooth!

I think Canva.com is a free platform. I have used it and its very easy to use.

I just got some BSI 30 min and I am using it today to clear coat a few baits, I like it more than anything else I have used (KBS, aerosol clears, etc). You don't need to thin it, and you don't need to use a turner (although you should use one) Of course I haven't tried TrueCoat or LureCoat, but this is so far my favorite, it's very user friendly. I have just been turning it in my hand for like 20 mins and it is very smooth for a single coat. It levels out very nicely. I will post pics of the baits when the clear coat is set.

kk

how many entries are allowed for one person

So, if you're going to spend that much on epoxy clear coat, you could spend less and get TrueCoat, which is widely considered the best lure clear coat ever made.

If the line tie is a screw eye, I don't really know what to tell you other than dissassemble the rear hook hanger and take the bait apart that way. If it is through wire like I think it is, you could take the 2 body pieces off and slide the prop off as well. You will have to reassemble the bait and maybe make new hardware for it.

Disclaimer: I don't own an airbrush, but what I have to offer is to look at some of the best airbrush paints on the market that can generally be shot right out of the bottle, such as Createx Wicked colors, and use that as an example as to how thin/thick it should be. Simply thin your paints. Trial and error also teaches you a lot.