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Do It Blank Mold

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Whats up my T.U. friends. I have ordered me a Blank Do It Mold. I have realized that my Ballast-Hook Hanger needs to be one. I was wondering how others here drilled their Blanks. I just need to have 4 or 5 different weights. I plan on doing my very best to drill the Ballest holes in the center of the Blank and after I add the lead I'm going to insert the hook hanger. Let me know if you think Im going to destroy my Blank mold. Im a Single Father and had to save to get it. Thanks

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I really thought this thread would have received more replies, so I will step in now with my method for ‘holed’ ballast weights:

I pour my own ballast weights, using a drilled hole as the mold.

The basic mold is made of a dense wood, cut into a rectangular section/plank. The 90 degree angles are critical for the drilling process.

The plate is cut in two halves and placed face-to-face. At this point, it emulates the blank do-it mold.

The clamped plates are drilled and pinned. The pin is glued in one half. This pinning enables the plates to be correctly located each time of use.

The mold now needs to be drilled, preferably using a drill press for accuracy, but can be done by hand. The hole needs to be exactly down the mating face, otherwise the casting will stick in one half of the mold.

To help the drill find the correct center location, with emery, I make a slight chamfer on each plate. This creates a VEE to locate the drill point. Providing the plates are absolutely square, the drill will follow the mating face.

It is best to use a smaller, sharp drill to create a pilot hole, to guide the larger drill.

Once the larger drill operation has been done, the basic mold is complete. Use the drill stops on the drill press to control the depth or tape the drill if working freehand.

To create a hole down the center of the ballast, I insert a brass pin. This pin must be removed as soon as possible, holding the lead and pin with pliers and twisting. Welding rod will work for the pin.

If the pilot hole is the correct diameter for the pin, then all you have to do is drill the pilot deeper, so that the pin can be inserted.

This same construction can be applied to the Do-it blank mold.

Obviously the wood will char and has a limited life, depending on the timber used. But you can drill as many duplicates as you want between the plates. If you want a different sized ballast, simply drill a new hole or drill out an existing hole that was smaller. I haven’t counted, but expect at least 50 casts from the mold.

Dave

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I use wood too, so i didnt have an answer for you... But i just now remembered seeing this

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/23195-making-your-own-aluminum-mold-for-pouring-belly-weights/#entry173600

In the thread is a pdf tutorial that might help you out

Edited by JRammit
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Made my first set this week. Knowing your size to drill that matches the weight you are looking for is a trial and error, at least it was for me. Now I know what depth and diameter makes what weight that I want. To find your weight you want, the wooden mold for your first one, as Dave stated. It's your best bet rather then to do something wrong with a 30-40 dollar mold. Using the wooden one will let you experiment a little with little cost.

Dale

Edit: A good kitchen scale will help a lot if you haven't already thought about it.

Edited by DaleSW
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density=mass/volume

 

We know the density of lead, bismuth, etc...  and we can easily calculate the volume of the cylinder (v=πR2H).

Plug them in and then solve for mass.

 

Or

 

http://www.custompartnet.com/quick-tool/weight-calculator

 

http://www.gearhob.com/eng/design/drill_eng.htm

 

You will have to convert to ounces/grams but easy enough to do.  But the first link is useful for various odds and ends you might come across outside of lure making.

Edited by Travis
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