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bryanmc

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Everything posted by bryanmc

  1. Good luck with the move. I grew up in Narragansett. You're going to save a ton of money just in taxes.
  2. Depends on the mold. You need to raise the pot somehow anyway if you put a valve on it.
  3. The problem I see with a valve in the middle of the pot is having to reach under the pot to activate it. As for hearing the valve, I use the heating element from a glue gun.
  4. Not that I've been told. I do know he left us way too soon.
  5. I just found out that Del Wilcox of Delmart molds passed yesterday morning. One of they guys who helped a lot of us get started in this addiction. RIP my friend.
  6. Anyone have a recipe?
  7. bryanmc

    O-ring

    Who made the injector?
  8. A friend gave me a gallon of MF bounce that had been sitting a few years. It was hard-packed probably 1/2" deep on the bottom. I poured off about half of the liquid, then cut the off the top of the jug where it starts to neck down. This let me get to the hard pack with a scraper and a drill mounted paint mixer. It took a while but I was eventually able to get all the hard-pack dissolved into the remaining liquid and then combined it in a new jug with what I had poured off in the beginning. Sounds like a lot of work bu not too bad. As an aside, I really like that plastic. I poured some 6 3/4" cut tails with it and when you put them on a shaky head the back 1/2 of the worn floats up at about a 45 degree angle.
  9. Best way I've found to store salt was posted by Del on here a long time ago. Quaker oatmeal container with cut up squares of cardboard box mixed in with the salt.
  10. Lurecraft has squid scent as well.
  11. Barry Ng once told me he had figured out how to keep that from happening, but he never told me how... LOL
  12. The only drawback to both is they will hard pack pretty severely. A buddy gave me a gallon of bounce he had for a couple years and there was literally an inch of hard pack on the bottom.
  13. Yeah, it does look pretty close.
  14. That picture is dirty sanchez, not summer craw. Looks like brown wm over chartreuse.
  15. I've been really happy with medium from baitplastics.com.
  16. Thanks Jigmeister! Saved me a step.
  17. I also found that number (46-6-3) through one of the PDFs attached to the listing for the motor. Called Grainger and it's no longer available, but he did give me some numbers for a couple that may work. Just need to find some calipers to get a reasonable measurement of the shaft it goes on. Thanks
  18. You must have missed that I'm only looking for a replacement fan for that motor, not an entire motor.
  19. The motor is an AC gear motor Dayton model 1LNG1. The fan is a 4 blade plastic one. Here the product info from the grainger website:
  20. I wasn't able to find the fan listed in the parts section. Did you see it somewhere?
  21. I contacted them. They don't carry Dayton motors so they don't have any parts. They suggested contacting the manufacturer, but I can't find any info on Dayton.
  22. I know it's a long shot, but does anybody know where you can get a replacement fan for the gear motor (I think it's a Dayton) we use on presto pots. Mine's in pretty bad shape and I'd like to replace it. I saw one somewhere a year or so ago when I was looking for something else but can't find it again. Thanks.
  23. Was going to say "I can't believe that myth is still around", but then I saw that post was from '14.
  24. Try this just for grins. Next time you shoot the mold, put a bait in the top cavity before you close and shoot it. Because the port looks so shallow I'm wondering if if you're getting a little air in the top cavity while it cools. Be sure to keep the sprue topped off after you inject when you try this.
  25. The lines from the tail of the worm on the right side of the picture (side with the bolts) are the vents. Take the corner of the tip of a flat blade screwdriver that fits in the vent and scratch them just a tiny bit deeper. You're just scratching, not gouging. It doesn't take much.
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