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aulrich

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Everything posted by aulrich

  1. I would build my spray booth so that it sucks in all of the over spray and runs the air through something like a furnace filter. if you run any oil paints or organic solvents you would have to run the air through a carbon filter too. A respirator is not a bad idea, but it could give a a false sense of security. Because paint that does not end up on the lure or the back of the spray booth is now dust in you work area. If there is a health threat in acrylic paints it's probably the various salts used for pigments so managing that dust in a small enclosed area is probably the way to go. So add a filtering system to you spray booth area and you should be golden.
  2. I think guys have pulled off two plastic pours so clear low with a micro balloon top layer or a two part foaming resin. I have never done that so I can't say. I have seen lure with large hollow inserts but they were soft plastics so not so much for buoyancy but for using less plastic, so maybe a small vial made of a thin walled clear plastic tube.
  3. Well now you got me curious. No clear resin in the house but I do have a lipless mold that could work with no micro balloons.
  4. I could not find any locally and amazon.ca had too long delivery. Since you brought it up I took look at the MSDS and all it says is Ethyl alcohol as far as I understand it the formula given is just anhydrous ethanol so my denatured should have done the same thing Is there is a chemist out there could you validate that? When I was searching around for options (I have DIY reducer so why not restorer) I ran into a airbrushing blog the the person swore by lacquer thinner , and it I knew I could get some locally so I tried it.
  5. Going on my limited understanding, I don't think you will find a clear resin that will work as you think since resins are are more dense than water. But I think there could be a way around that problem. Roto Molding. You will need a mold without sprue or vents. Fill that mold with enough resin that will give you enough wall thickness for strength but enough air packet for buoyancy. You then pout that mold into a 2 axis spinner that slowly spins the mold on both the x and 4 axis and just like a lure tuner spreads the resin smoothly over the top of a lure the spinner puts an even coat on the inside of the mold. I would think you need a resin with a fairly long pot time Since you will likely need to pour the dose into the mold, degas the resin then mount it in the spinner with enough time to created the even coating. there are probably more issues but IDK. Another option is resin 3d printing lookup gulfstream outdoors on YouTube to see what can be made. it is a whole new can of worms
  6. So since I find myself doing a bit more painting than in the last couple of years an old pain had raised it's head the plugging every few minutes pain. At to cut to the chase, lacquer thinner is my airbrush's new best friend. I had soaked my airbrush in denature alcohol and I thought that helped but a quick filling of the bowl and after a minute or two gunk started to come loose. it took about 10 minutes but I don't think the brush was that clean since day 1. I found the idea on an airbrushing blog while trying to find airbrush restorer
  7. Just dipping my toes into making a freshwater popper the body it 25mm x 88 or 1"x3.5" , as I understand it the ballast should be further back, but just how far. the is is the body in fusion. And since this is a printed lure should I be shooting for a just barely buoyant.
  8. So I have been fighting with replicating a lazy Ike type lure, a lot of the issue were related to 3d printing and I did eventually get around them and finally got one to swim but it was barely buoyant, I could have been over hooked #2s on a 88mm (~3.2freedomunits) my hook supply is a bit sparse at the moment :). For some reason I decided to remove the ballast and it still swam. so when you are making a floater diver how to you set you starting ballast weight. Also what would be the signs of instability
  9. I have learned a ton from that channel mostly CAD related since I just have an FDM printer at the moment.
  10. I have tub tested the printed with foamed PLA and the baits do have a more lively action. I have printed a whole bunch with luck I can field test them sooner than later. My gut tells me they should be fine since the surface finish is sort of rough it bond better to screw eyes and lips. Speaking of lips, I spent the time remodeling the lip since I had a couple of broken lips in the first batch. The lip now look more like a commercial injected molded body. At the body the lip is 2.8-3 mm instead of 2mm. But it tapers to less than 1mm at the leading edge. I also made the lip and corresponding slot "Keyed" so the lip is always centered and straight.
  11. Epoxy does need some gap to properly bond. Are you using any release agent on the mold that may not have been cleaned off. A mechanical lock like holes is never a bad idea.
  12. Actually vapor smoothing is a common practice at least with some filaments. As an example exposure to acetone fumes will smooth prints from ABS filament. There are smoothing products for prints but simple sanding sealer works even a thin coat of CA glue, CA also is a great sealer and is useful for bonding any layers that did not bond completely, 3d print at least from a FDM printer tend not to be water tight. There is no way to completely avoid sanding. I don't think an FDM printed lure will never win a beauty contest but they do catch fish.
  13. Just wanted to report back on the foamed filament, it's very interesting. When I got it I snapped of a chunk and put it in water, and it floated. I did not get the 35% lighter but I did get an average of about 25% so not trivial. I am printing samples of my my bodies to see if there is a noticeable difference. I did find some difference already, it's not quite as stiff as regular PLA, but as long as it is stiff/strong enough I am OK with it. Because it's foam the surface finish is different sort of coarse but that should make it take paint better
  14. I have use glow powder in the epoxy top coat with good success.
  15. OK this will seem a bit off the wall but, there is a YouTuber called AVE he started this thing called Town Pump CNC. I believe he is open to small custom work. The biggest question is how to get a hold of him maybe the community tab on his channel or his patreon page. He does have a nice 5 axis Haas.
  16. So I finally gave the lures I had made a proper field test and in general they performed well if not always as expected. Durability I had no bodies fail and they stood up to the small and medium sided pike that we caught, nothing over 36" but oddly the bigger the pike are the easier they are on the lure body little 20-24s will shred a lures finish. I did break lips but I am not sure how there are no rocks to bounce off so a redesign is in order I'll need to learn how to model a lip that is more like what is on an injected molded lure blank. Another option is to make a standard Lexan lip I could probably print up a template and go/no-go gauge easy enough. I had none of my twisted wire hook hanger fail so that will likely be my default unless some other consideration dictates otherwise. I will try gelled ca glue since 5 min epoxy is a pain and wasteful. I did have some paint adhesion issues but I think I can lay that at the feet of a batch of lures that I used a rattle can primer. The lures I just cleaned and painted with normal acrylic seem to be fine. How the lure performed. Meadow Mouse reproduction To be honest this one did not get much development yet the lake I was fishing has almost no topwater bite I have been fishing it for 20 years and I have only caught a couple of fish on top water but lakes closer to home do have good top water bites so I will take the one clear strike as an indication that I should paint the test lure and add a tail. 8" minnow or as my nephew named it "the meme" It swam well and actually manage to put a 29" walleye into the boat which was a thing since the bay was loaded with 2-3 inch whitefish fry and the fish in general were very size and color specific this trip. It dove too deep for the place we were fishing most of the time and it does take effort to cast it. But it should be a a killer when we are trolling deep weed edges so I will have to print out a few more. Jointed Pike This one swam well and did catch fish but since the fish were so color and size specific it under performed. I only had a natural paint job version so I think I may have to have an unnatural firetiger like paintjob in the box as well. The lure did land a couple of 30"+ pike and the joint seems to be fine so other than stiffening the lip this one is winner. Bomber Long A KO This one I had in both a printed version and a cast version (Smooth-on Smoothcast300 10% micro spheres by weight) Both caught some fish the 3d printed version seemed to have a snappier action but with those bodies I just dropped the ballast into the mold and hopped the best. and the ballast seemed to move around so maybe if I use a splitshot on the wire form it would preform better. All of these lure had paint problems but the cast lure shed the pain almost instantly. In an alumilite video they talked about painting the mold so you get a chemical bond to the undercoat. Has anyone here tried that? Since the jointed pike worked a jointed version of this is on the list. 4" minnow This one did not perform as expect but it was certainly a Bob Ross happy accident. As it turns out what I though would be a run of the mill 4" floater diver turned out to be neutrally buoyant and dead flat with a steel leader. I do want a true floater diver but this version is a keeper. I will have to stiffen the lips on these hopefully it does not effect the buoyancy too much. 3.5" lipless This one performed decently but sufferd from the bad paint job, like most slower sinking lipless the swim is effected by a kinked leader but as it sits it should be killer through the ice. a little wiggle and noticeable forward motion on the drop. it caught well on a rip and fall retrieve while the paint lasted. The stencils are off the hook awesome I will have to try 3d scanning a commercial blank there could be a business opportunity there. I have ordered what is call light weight PLA folks use it for printing RC planes it is regular PLA that either is pre-foamed or it foams as you heat it. I am getting the pre foamed type it supposed to be 35% lighter and should help me with lower volume floater diver lures I tried to make a lazy Ike KO and it was a complete dud.
  17. Probably, though I have yet to get flexible filament to work for me (yet), it's sort of like playing pool with a rope.
  18. The process it’s self is pretty easy especially since the lure body was something I created in fusion. If you had a commercial blank, you would have to 3d scan it and import it into fusion then the steps should be about the same. Once you have a lure shape that you like, back track in the fusion timeline to where you have the shape but no eyes scales etc. Make a copy of that body. Split the body on the side view Using the Shell command make an outside shell for me 1.5 mm seems to work well with my type of printer Add clearance on the inside of the shell using the offset face command I have been using .3 mm . Add fillets to the inside edges. draw a sketch for the tabs and extrude/join to the stencil Add fillets on the tabs too the print is much stronger and the tab is less likely to break off (don’t ask me how I know) Using the pipe command and my existing hook hanger sketch I make clearance for the hook hangers. You have a basic stencil blank To make a stencil Copy the stencil blank Create a sketch and project the lure body on that sketch this will give you a basic outline of your lure on the sketch. On the sketch draw the opening in the stencil, in the case of my “trout” stencil I created a 2mm circle then copy/pasted a bunch of times Select all of the holes in your sketch turn on the copy of stencil blank and extrude/cut the holes out. Mirror that body to make the other half Export and print the stencil To give credit where credit is due this is where I learned how to do this, I learned a ton from this channel i do need to change some thing since I have a different style of printer but it mostly applies. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fivat0XayUQ
  19. So following Gulfstream outdoors example I made some classic patterns for my baits. the Pike stencil is version 3 and it's close enough for now I need to refine the spot color first. Please excuse the ham fisted air brushing these are the first lures in a couple of years and I was never that good in the first place. The process is pretty easy make a shell from the body add the tabs and draw the pattern then extrude the holes. My version of pike I need a good cream color for the spots A variant of fire tiger And a version of trout this one is a bit ham fisted
  20. Hey now I have a use for a 3d print that fails and leaves me with a build plate full of noodles interesting idea regardless
  21. That is a good thought, I was thinking there may be a bit too much drag s much as I like the flowy nature of a zonker strip. Too much kitchen renos the last two weeks and not enough fishing.
  22. If you just want to practice painting, you can also use PVC pipe, if you have some kicking around the house
  23. A couple of updates, I tried printing a mold and yes I could get it to fit together quite nice getting the wire harness in and the mold closed was way to fiddly for my taste. So I tried printing a mold of a mold, it looks to have worked quite well. The only issue I have at before I cast a bodyi is that I make the mold a little thin another 3-6mm would make it a bit more ridged. The other thing I was not liking about printed lure was the lips, I just did not like the look of a solid color lip. And the plastic I was using, PLA, is not rated for outdoor use untreated at least. Another common printing plastic is PETG And I found myself some "Translucent" it's nowhere near clear but clear enough to work for now. Just to test I am printing a body in this material PETG is not known for taking paint all that well what I am shooting for is a "ghost minnow" sort of look so a bit of paint top and bottom with everything else left clear.
  24. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bondo-body-repair-kit-0475653p.html#plp This is the stuff I use. I have never timed the workability and it will be hugely temperature dependent. I did some looking and it looks like the first 30 min after the initial cure is what they call the green stage where it works really easy. so it is a light touch to get to 90% then let it sit for a while and you can get the rest of the way. There is a wood version of bondo, it uses wood flour filler vs whatever is in the automotive stuff is filled with. I would suspect it is softer in the final cure
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