Hillbilly voodoo

Maybe check out the different brass spinner bodies. You might find something the right shape

I have also been using a similar method to what JD posted I have used all kinds of metal disks I cut out even beer cans cut up. I have also used the brass ends of shotgun shells. For the balls anything for ball bearings to BBs. Wood baits I cover with wood filler and resin baits I use a fairly thick resin/micro balloon mix so it sands nicer I have also suspended brass tubes with folded over ends with BBs/ball bearing inside inside me my molds and poured rattling lures I preferred the results of the method in JD’s video

Lure making will cost you time, your sanity and probably even your soul lol I don’t even want to know what it has cost me money wise over the years.

You ever have a bass break your crankbaits I want to see a pic of the tank that did it so you better land it lol Sadly I don’t think that day will come

Where actions like that really shine is for trolling lures where you don’t have the same ability to apply action on the retrieve This in my opinion is where hunters need to be marketed not the bass fishing market that is more about casting. Something to consider and maybe be a venture for something to do on the side to see how it goes. I think you have something there but you will need to apply it correctly and get it known on your own

What I always find interesting when it comes to to debating the lure construction strength is most are not considering is the shear range in size/power of fish people target with lures. Most are comparing lure construction to species like bass where 10lbs is big and failing to realize this is a small fish to some who target larger species I would be choked if someone built me a lure for a tarpon trip using the same construction they used for largemouth I have had big chinook, lake trout, and pike break lures. I have had pike break hangers twisting in a net/cradle. Chinook have pulled out hangers/break hangers. I have had big Lakers crack hollow plastic plugs/crankbaits on the strike and break hangers rolling in the net Through wire is not needed for the species I just listed but construction that some are assuming is good enough will experience failure. Theses are not even true big game species either What some view unnecessary/overkill may be just what is needed for another. There is a big difference between building lures for panfish and saltwater big game species

There is one thing that would work but only worth while if you are doing this often make half a silicone mold to hold the blank perfectly and use a drill press after. When I mentioned jig it can anything to hold it stable and level. I built a cradle to hold salmon to do this years ago out of wood even In all honesty I have been successful just marking the lure using calipers and using a cordless drill. But if does run a high risk of going wrong

The things we stumble on when trying new Very interesting yet simple mod too

Funny this thread popped up again I just came inside for a break from shaping a 7inch lipped jerk bait

I have to ask when you originally put theses hooks together was the goal to make the lure hunt or were you trying to add some flash to a crankbait?

Clamp it in a jig to hold it level and steady. Drill a small pilot hole straight through the lure so both sides match. After that bore out whatever eye socket you choose

Dave moderate diver at about 8feet can definitely be made to hunt

If there is risk of your target fish species to actually break the body of the lure through wire is a good thing. In most cases this is not an issue so for most species/lures it’s not needed in my opinion If you are making resin baits and you cast your hardware into the lure through wire is even less important The main thing in my opinion is appropriate hardware matched to the material to handle your target species

I am on a jerk bait kick right now so my vote is a slender lipped slow rise jerk bait

Sometimes an oddball action is the answer to getting fish to bite sometimes it’s not There is definitely a lot of different movements that most fisherman overlook though

No way she is ever seeing this post lol

There is an action that a lot of fisherman view as bad in crankbaits but it actually looks natural I owned an aquaculture outfit in the past and noticed a lot of of injured fish roll swimming on their side struggling to stay up right. I have trolled a crankbait that blows out and side swims at times for lake trout with good results. The lure action looks like crap by fisherman’s and lure builders standards but I always carry one when trolling lake trout. Somedays it pulls out fish when nothing else is working I have also had lures that had an amazing action in my mind but the fish did not agree or found them meh I am a firm believer in letting the fish be the judge on what is a good action/color.

@azsouth if you want I personally know an owner of a mid size Canadian lure company that I can call directly and see what he has to say. He will give me a cut and dry no BS answers or I will make fun of him that he is a crappy fisherman lol No promises it goes anywhere but I have the ability to by pass all the BS and talk to him directly at least. We have history so he won’t beat around the bush with me If you are interested shoot me a PM and a description of the design( not how it’s built) and what your proposal to the company is regarding your design Don’t be surprised if his response is simply that it’s not for him. Theses guys get all kinds of designs thrown at them

Honestly I think a large portion of fisherman don’t even realize hunting is a good thing. I have one design that consistently has a hiccup in the action hot exactly hunt but more so 6inch kicks off to the side. I have had multiple fisherman ask me if I was going to tune that out of the action so it runs true. There seems to be a portion of fisherman who believe a good lure must run perfectly straight and consistent I wonder if this plays a roll why big companies are not biting on it on your hunting information

Agree a much better option for working it low and slow wife wants to toss it in near the tail race of the dam rear the house so top of the nose is how it’s being molded

Well I broke down and asked the wife and she says top of the nose The problem now is if this lure is a hit she is going to try and take all the credit for the design

Good video and I have been using adjustable testing methods for crankbaits/plugs for a long time. Even with my recent resin glider I poured probably a dozen different resin/micro balloon combination to decide what action I preferred I am a firm believer in prototypes before finishing In the case of this pull bait I know what to expect with each tie point location. It is more a matter of what direction to go The experimental part will be the resin recipe to achieve the fall rate/angle I want

I just finished my master for a curly tail pull bait and trying to decide on a tie point location This will be a resin bait it will be a front heavy sinking bait using a combination of pure resin/lead bird shot poured into the drop belly location in the head. The rest of the body will be poured with a floating mix of resin/micro balloons. The goal is to have it so I can rest the lure on the bottom resting on its nose with the tail floating up so it gives almost a feeding look hook locations one at the back edge of the eye and the other in the drop section in the tail debating on a tie point in the tip of the nose which will be good when jerking.twitching the bait on faster retrieves or on top of the nose which would be better for slower retrieves hoping it a long. May get a slight wiggle do to the forehead but likely only on a hard rip Just can’t decide

If you plan to stick around and contribute to the forum you will find members here welcoming hopefully you do because this place could grow into so much more if it had more regular contributors