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benton B

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Everything posted by benton B

  1. Super glue will make those soft balsa baits have a very hard outer shell. That give you are feeling will cause the epoxy to crack. My process is to seal with super glue first and then use a coat of epoxy to for a 2nd sealer, also gives a smooth surface to paint.
  2. If you smack a rock or something hard on the cast then every clear coat is going to crack. There is nothing out there that can with stand a direct hit on a rock. I use flex coat products for sealer and clear coat, these are a bit softer than devcon but still crank with a direct hit on a rock.
  3. They use a screw mounted into that piece of angle then just screw on the baits for painting and clear coat. The guy is cutting off the clear coatthat has run down the screw and cured.
  4. gravity fed brushes for me, you can shoot 2 drops of paint and cleaning between colors is very easy.
  5. Looks like Lohr's lures in that pic. His tail shape was unique and he used plastic lips. The WEC baits use lexan lips as do most of the copies I've seen. I build my version from 1/2 stock, 1/8oz of ballast, and a straight lip that is 1 3/4 inch long. I think the length of the body is 2.5 inches long. I have a Blazer Tapp in box somewhere and my pattern was built similar.
  6. Just a guess but maybe it placed on the inside of the lure before it's put together.
  7. Here is a balsa 4 inch walker I build and it's a flat side made from 1/2 stock. Easy bait to build and even easier to fish.
  8. If you heat the balsa wood then air bubbles are going form under your seal coat. Rub the bait down with a coat of super glue and this will fix that problem. Super glue will also harden the light balsa wood giving you a stronger bait. Super glue will cause the grain to rise but a light sanding will is a you need before sealing with epoxy.
  9. Mudhole has great logo's stickers perfect for that project
  10. You need to let the mixed batch of etex set up for about 10 min before you start brushing on. it's too thin right after mixing and it will seperate on the bait and you end up with bare spots.
  11. Good luck trying to mimic the action of the WART. I've tried for several yrs off and on, nothing has come close. That cupped bill is the one thing I did not try to copy and imho is the key to that erratic action. Have fun with the project Mark
  12. Side note, rub the balsa baits with super glue and they will be hard as a rock.
  13. I just punch my eyes out of vinyle, no runs, drips, or errors. Still put the dang things on crooked.
  14. Shoot the silver over a dark colored base coat for best results
  15. I never put my line tie past the halfway point between the nose of the bait and end of the bill on deep divers. Shorter bill I will usually leave enough room between the nose of the bait and line tie so my clear coat does not gum up the line tie.
  16. Cold bend a lexan lip to a steep angle and use the slot that's already cut in the bait.
  17. The clear coat does not affect the uv additive.
  18. Wicked paints has a uv additive, just mix with any color you want. According to one of my customers it makes a bait light up under the black light. I just mixed in the base coat color for a few baits and saw no difference in spraying. I used multiple light coats, drying each coat. You could even spray the additive directly over a painted bait but this guy wanted certain areas of the bait to light up.
  19. BobP is talking about a stencil for painting not cutting out a lure. He is just using the profile to make sure his pattern will fit on the bait.
  20. Nathan is correct, nothing will with stand repeated casts againt hard objects.
  21. Use the Rebel Jumpin Minnow as a guide but I don't see why your idea will not work. You may have to weight the tail of the bait so the nose is above the water a little. Should give you a nice erractic walking action.
  22. Look at the basswood sheets, it's misleading. You can get the 1/2" thick wood.
  23. www.nationalbalsa.com, they sell basswood also.
  24. My reason for thinking the blades might kill the action, because the blades might balance the bait so it would not wobble. Just a thought off the top of my head. The reason I would use leader wire is because it's flexible and will give when a fish eats the bait. The wake bait idea was because I tried a prop on a square bill and it killed the action of that bait but my wake baits are not affected. I have no idea why the wake bait likes the prop but the other crank did not. I like your idea and plan to try it on a wake bait.
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