benton B

At first look, I would say the blades will kill the action of the crank. On a second look it might be worth a try on a wake bait. I use a prop on the tail of my wake baits and it works very well. You could use 7 strand coated leader wire and epoxy that in a hole thru the bait to cut down on added weight. I would also use small willow blades to cut down on drag.

I'm pretty sure that Thompson's has some kind of wax or oil that would kill your paint job. I use super glue followed by a coat of epoxy. The bait is water tight after that process.

If the bait is wood then just hit with a propane torch for a few seconds, devcon will lift right off the bait.

I got mine from Lee Valley Tools but I don't remember how much.

I love the wheeled marking guage I have and would never try to build a lure without it.

Flex coat is the only top coat I can talk about because that's all I've used since switching from D2t yrs ago.

Hold your baits by the bill and apply the flex coat. I've been doing that way for yrs and never have a problem with running all over the bills. I also let the mixed batch of flex coat sit for about 5 min before I start brushing it on. It needs to start to cure or else it's way too runny for me. Flex coat is the best product for me and that's why I use it.

I think you have to build the shallow runners with the lightest ballast weight possible. A bait with a slow rise is going to be tough to fish thru heavy cover. I want my shallow runners to pop up like a cork but have enough weight to remain stable, it's a fine line to walk.

That brought back some memories and Skeeter still is a ornery cuss but one hell of a teacher. Thanks buddy for taking the time to help a wet behind the hears kid get started in this great hobby.

I'm just a red neck that is set in his ways but I've never had a clear coat peel off unless I caused it. My method is simple, rub on super glue, seal with flex coat's rob builder epoxy, prime, paint, and clear coat with flex coat's ultra v rod finish. That's been my method for a few yrs now and I've never seen a failure. If you smack a rock or the boat then of course the finish will crack and it must be repaired. Normal to hardcore cranking has not caused any problems with my baits. The clear coat does get scuffed and scratched by rocks, hooks and fish but it's still holding. I'm not trying to sell anyone on my method but if you want to try a system that's been tested over time then I'm willing to share. The bottom line is that you have to find a system that works for you and stick with it. Devcon vs Etex, those were the days.

If you decide to try Flex Coat send me a pm and I can give you a few tips.

try candy foil wrappers, very thin stuff and comes in multiple colors/ sizes.

Why not switch to a better clear coat that will last? I've using Flex Coat's Ultra V high build rod finish for several yrs with no complaints. Yes it's a brush on clear that requires a drying wheel but no need to repaint/repair baits after a fishing trip.

If water gets under the clear coat then it's going to fail. I do not know of a product or process that will prevent that from happening.

What do you mean by only lasting a couple of days? What is happening to your baits?

I have a few baits that I still fish that are over 10yrs old.

lure parts online sells that plastic insert for use with screw eyes. Some guys use wood dowels for that job.

I use a allen wrench chucked in my cordless drill, same process. I epoxy the screw eye in a pre-drilled hole that is slightly larger.

I prefer a light coat of white primer before shooting my base coat. Only takes one base coat to cover the bait.

I use 1 inch, 3/4, 1/2, and 3/8 for the different baits I build.

I tried dipping with thinned latex paint and it was a pain. I can prime with a spray can much faster and get to painting colors sooner.

Ben, you can get a wood bait to run as deep as the 10xd . Use a 3 inch round body, slim profile with 1/2oz of ballast split between the chest and belly. Make your lip shape similar to a willow leaf blade at 3.5 inches long from the nose of the bait. Fish that big boy on 20/6 braid and you will be digging the bottom at 24 feet. The bait will be easier on your arms than a DD22.

Use a wheeled marking guage before I start carving. I know exactly how much wood to take off the corners and then just keep carving corners off until the bait is round. A couple of yrs of practice did not hurt.

Wrap a piece of clear plastic around finger before spreading the glue on the bait. You can paint directly on the super glue after primer but the wood grain will show thru the paint. To get a fully sealed bait with a smooth surface to paint then use a two part epoxy over the super glue.

How big is the bait? length and width. How much ballast and exact location? Post a pic of the exact bait please.