DaBehr

I have the Bass Tackle kit and it is great! I mold the bodies with high density additive from Do-it....rig the bait backwards and the thing falls backward...just like a real craw! Great for throwing under a dock or hanging brush ! I use the yellow high vis Power Pro so I can give it a lot of slack to let it swim...and watch the line for the hit. A really good way to make the hot blade to mold the two pieces together is to weld a metal scrapper onto a soldering iron tip. You can buy a flat tip soldering tip (kind of looks like a screw driver blade) at Home Depot.

Excellent video. i was happy to see you wearing the mask and gloves...setting a good safety example!

This may be against the "rules"...but as a new bait maker I sure would appreciate more posts like this that "approve" a bait by multiple users. It would be very helpful if we could have a section (and you can not read it if you don't like it!) where we can rate the performance of a bait by the various companies listed in the section where to get baits. As I said in another post, these companies appear take the time and effort to research their baits and guarantee their performance.....but I would still like some confirmation by anglers! I don't mind spending my money...but I sure hate to waste my money and time painting a bait that just doesn't work all that well. I sure would like to know what the members think are the top ten best action baits and who supplies them. It's going to be a long winter and I need some painting projects! Thanks for your consideration.

I have purchased from all of the vendors listed in this post (that sell small quantities) and I am very happy with the performance of all the baits. I have bought a few times off ebay....and I was not near as happy. In my opinion, if you stick with any of the vendors listed, you will be happy. They do all the homework that you and I can't.

I completely disagree. I personally prefer the essential finish..it's more realistic in my opinion...but everyone has their own onion! I really don't think the fish care. I have both the Essentials mold and the CNC (and a Basstackle version) and they all shoot nice...and all catch fish.

The injected plastic needs to be very hot...so that it melts the lower layer. Make sure you inject slowly so it doesn't lift the bottom and then flash around the entire bait.

Essential from Do-it... I add a couple drops of softener for my panfish baits. Regular for bass baits.

I have the Senko and the Beaver style ES molds and I prefer the finish on those molds. Looks more realistic to me. And from what I can tell from fishing them....the bass like them too! The Beaver style has been especially good for me this year.

I buy mostly from Barlow's largerly because the have a very informative website and I'm confident I'm buying the right hooks, wires etc for the mold I'm buying.

The Do-it starter kits are a good value and get you started with quality equipment. The Essential plastic is a really forgiving plastic to start with. http://store.do-itmolds.com/Kit--Injection-Wacky_p_337.html I would strongly recommend their digital thermometer (most "problems" are caused by the plastic not getting hot enough...or too hot). Get a good pair of heat resistant gloves (from Do-it or Home Depot) ...Safety first! The Do-it kit includes the gloves Read up on all of the forums about safety ....350 degree plastic is HOT! It's a fantastic hobby!

#1: Black with Blue Flake #2 Lt. Watermelon with black flake (and a little bit of red flake)

Make sure you select the option to include 2 knobs. After you have a bunch of molds you won't need more knobs!

Maybe give Do-it Customer Service a call and see if anyone there has a suggestion?

I like to use Devcon 2 ton epoxy...you get a longer working time plus no white residue issues. I also coat the heads of some of my fancy jigs and spinner baits with it also. (It's commonly used to top coat custom painted crank baits.) Only down side is that you can't fish the baits until the next day.

I really like it. Low odor (big thing at my house!), very temperature tolerant (you have to get it REALLY hot to burn it !). Very clear. It is also Phthalate free It seems more elastic..."tougher". Make sure you completely mix it every time you use it! It doesn't hard pack...but it will settle fairly quickly (like a lot of other formulas!). After I mix up the gallon box really well ....I dispense it into a couple pint bottles I have. I just make baits for myself and buddies so I don't go through a gallon at a time...and it's easier to shake and mix the pint bottle when I'm making a round of baits 4oz at a time. Like with any plastic...buy a pint or a gallon... and try it before you invest in a large amount.

I use Windex and Formula 409. I run clean water through at the end.

Nope.... Did you stir it REALLY well? I had two baits that never did set correctly....save that tacky bait for those times you think you may very well loose the bait if you throw it in there....or catch a monster.

I suspect Majic is more concerned with running his own agenda than helping others....or understanding some some of the basic principles of injection molding.

What you are experiencing is called "differential shrinkage" a very common problem with any injection molded plastic part. It is caused by the skin of the bait setting, and when the dense body cools it will pull from the weakest point. Most commonly the closest skin. This is also know as "splay" in a hard plastic part. It could also pull from another part of the part causing it to warp. The common ways to overcome this in plastic molding is to lower the temperature of the plastic you are injecting, texture the location or reduce the thickness of the wall in that area of the mold so that there is no dense, hot core. But we all like those big body baits! There are some additives that can be used to minimize the issue..but we don't use those in plastic bait injection. At a cost of few thousand dollars you could add a heat element to that area of the mold so the skin doesn't set up as quickly. Have you noticed that after you shoot the mold a few times....and the mold is really hot....that the dent seems to go away? That's because the skin is not setting up as fast and becoming the weakest point for the core to suck from. But...it is pulling from somewhere else so you get a dent somewhere else or it will cause the bait a slight warp...which being soft plastic we don't even notice. The most common solution (for both our soft baits and for hard plastic injection) is to hold pressure to help push the hotter core out so the dent is less (probably not gone...just less). And yes...this problem comes up all the time on the Do-it forum....and it's still the same solution. Search Dents on the forum. I would suggest you inject the mold at the lowest temperature that completely fills the mold, and hold pressure for at least a 10 count.

Devcon 2 Ton CLEAR is used by a lot of people. Make sure it says clear...not yellow! Google: Paint a Crankbait and study all the videos! Lots of good information on www.dakotalakestackle.com his book is really good for beginners. You can order it off Amazon...along with your Devcon. Andy

Blue Ribbon Flies in West Yellowstone, MT has the best quality fly tying materials by far. http://www.blue-ribbon-flies.com/ I also buy a lot from feather craft (for bass bugs, gear etc). http://www.feather-craft.com

It's probably the "out gasing" from the material. it's the "new car smell" or why your eyes water if you install cheap carpet! (or close up your camper). The manufacturer could control it...for $$$. I wonder if they smell as much underwater? Maybe...maybe not.

I don't think there is any way to lessen the over spray...but there is a way to manage it. I drilled a hole in the back of a plastic 5 gallon pail and put my shop vac hose into it. Sucks all the over spray away.! I lay the bucket on its side and spray into the bucket.

Make sure your paint is fully cured before you top coat it. I typically give my baits 3 blasts of hair drier, about 10 minutes apart before I coat them. Especially in the winter when it's pretty chilly in the basement where I work. I also give the epoxy some shots of warm air because the epoxy needs a fairly warm environment to set correctly. (warm...not hot...so I use the hair drier from a distance).