RiverSmallieGuy

We are on the same page-- I am trying to find a way to make a 7-8 inch glider glide as far as a 9-10 inch bait. Sorta like taking a S-Waver 168 or 200 and making it glide like a Deps 250. I know there is a way to do it, I mean there just has to be, just gonna have to go through a ton of testing and prototyping. Braden

Thanks man! I painted her today too, rattle-can threadfin shad! I will post it in the gallery tomorrow or wednesday because I am clear coating it tomorrow, I am letting the paint dry overnight.

Yeah, I guess I should start thinking of mistakes as learning opportunities for my dream career as of now-- building resin, wooden, and soft plastic lures and selling them. Mistakes are how I got to the point I am with this current glider! Cheers! Braden

I don't do a ton of epoxy clear coats, I don't like them, because they take away the carved details. I generally use KBS Diamond Finish aerosol can. I don't know, so take this with a grain of salt, but I would guess that .2oz total mixture of epoxy, (so .1 oz hardener and .1 oz resin) I would put like 4-7 drops in that much, but I don't use epoxy (for clear coat) so I don't know if that would work. Braden

Ummm. I have heard incredible things about people using denatured alcohol to thin epoxy clear coats. Don't add too much though, it doesn't help it at that point-- it makes it too weak. Braden

I have been having issues with getting glidebaits to effectively glide, and it just hit me... Right now. I saw a split ring on my desk, and I was cleaning my desk, and I realized that that is why I haven't been getting glidebaits to glide consistently. I have been tying direct to my baits with 65lb braid, and tying improved clinch knots with 8-10 twists, so the knot was very stiff and restricted motion. I tossed a split ring onto the nose of my current project, and now it does the longest glides I have ever seen a 6 1/2" - 7" glide do. I am so dumb..... hahahahahaa. I have been weighing them so well the whole time and seeing as how I am only 15, I never realized the tiniest potential issue until now, which is pretty common for folks my age... I feel a lot better now, but I am so conflicted, I feel so good that I figured it out, but feel so disappointed that it took me this long. Has anyone else had this experience lol? Braden

I was reading some of Vodkaman's older posts, and came across this one; and as I was reading it, when I got to the section where he talks about inertia, I was thinking about what he had said. He had said (this is paraphrasing) that you can use the weight as a way to resist change of direction, and thus result in a wider glide. He had also said (once again, paraphrasing) that placing weight at the very front and the very back of the glider would restrict motion because the joint cannot produce enough leverage to move it. I was thinking about ways to increase the leverage produced by the joint, which I believe would increase how wide the glide was. Several possible variables came to mind: Joint angle, Lure thickness and taper, joint spacing, lure length, tallness of profile, and joint location. Does anybody know anything about how to manipulate joint leverage, be that increasing it or decreasing it? Braden

A good way to determine if your snare wire is suitable is to purchase similar diameter wire that is proven and recognized as a great wire and compare the stiffness and workability of the two wires. Braden

I know they aren't exactly flexible, but a couple of great spray clear coats are the standard Rustoleum Ultra Cover X2 Gloss Clear cans and the KBS Diamond Finish aerosol cans. They stay clear forever and are very glossy and durable. It is the same compound as the Rustoleum Ultra Cover X2 spray paint cans, so that makes it fairly flexible, or atleast as flexible as spray paint. The KBS is incredibly durable for spray on clears. I like to use the KBS because it stays clear forever, and dries rock hard and super smooth and is thin enough to keep carving detail present-- thick epoxy clear coats take all that detail away. Braden

The way I learned was watching YouTube videos by Engineered Angler Lures, Marling Baits, Solar Baits, and zimmtex. Due to my lack of tools, I had to adapt the methods they used to the tools I had at hand. You may also want these woods: cedar, pine, and poplar. Maybe maple if you are making enormous lures (13-16 inches). All of those woods are phenomenal for lure building. Braden

Other words, Mel Brooks = points. Hahahaa Braden

I know I am late to this topic, but what I use 99% of the time is rattle-can spray paint. It is cheap, it is fun, and it is easy (if you know what you're doing). You can use stencils and there is any color you could possibly want and even tons of finishes. Braden

Have you tried it for a clear coat? It is very strong and stays crystal clear.

I have a question, does the joint angle on swimbaits significantly impact the action? I have heard great things about a 22 degree V joint, but have also tried to use straight joints like on the Bull Shads and can't seem to get straight joints to work as well as V joints. I have been using and loving 45 degree angle joints for swimbaits, but I am curious as to what is widely considered a great joint angle. I also know that you can change the angle on the back half of a joint tp increase play in the joint. Does that do anything? Braden

I have heard of people doing the same thing with feathered treble hooks and red treble hooks; it's a targeting area because it stands out. I have heard stories where people were missing fish after fish with 2 black or silver or bronze hooks, and then they changed the front or back treble to a red or feathered treble and then the hooked every fish that ate their lure and the red or feathered treble was always in the mouth. The one thing I would say about feathered trebles though is that they can restrict motion of a crankbait or really any other lure because the feathers cause more drag than just a bare treble. Braden

Are you meaning like a 5 minute epoxy when you say 30 min cure? Or are you meaning a 30 minute epoxy. I am guessing that when you say 5 minute work time, you are referring to 5 minute. Either way, BSI epoxy is great for lures. I have heard phenomenal things about their 30 minute epoxy for clear coats. Braden

I have heard of that idea. I haven't used it, but I know that a lot of people like it and use it. How does polyurethane stack up to the linseed oil + mineral spirit mixture? I just use polyurethane as a sealer, I don't use it as a clear coat, because its not a good clear coat. Braden

Honestly, I like to use a fairly soft rod with chatterbaits and spinnerbaits. I have used Falcon finesse jig rods and loved them, but love most my older Bass Pro bionic blade 7ft med-hvy worm/jig rod. It is a soft jig rod, almost a heavy squarebill rod, but I love he way it loads up. Braden

I have been using Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane in the Clear Semi-Gloss finish with decent success. Does dipping the lure multiple times seal it better or is that just for getting a smooth finish. Are there any better sealers I should use on my wooden lures, which are mostly crankbaits and swimbaits. Braden

Forgot to mention, the process always had deviations, that is just a rough guideline. Don't be afraid to go out of your comfort zone, just don't hurt yourself doing it. Braden

I have used and like the JB Weld ClearWeld 5 minute epoxy. It dries clear and is really strong. Its fairly inexpensive as well. I have tried it as a clear coat too, not ideal, but definitely works. Braden