Hillbilly voodoo

I agree with this guy

I am up for checking out your design and will do my best to give honest input

Ok you have my attention since I like to screw things up once in awhile lol What kind of dry time are you getting on theses layers?

I have not used G 10 but I found making a template and using a laminate trimmer and effective way to duplicate exact lexan lips Recently I started trading with someone who has a fancy router they just program to cut exact duplicate lips or me.

What he said I use a heat gun but you have to be careful or you bubble the paint. Keep it back and keep it moving to prevent this Not saying a heat gun is better but it is more manly and my wife doesn’t yell about me stealing her hair dryer

Welcome from Alberta Canada (unless you voted for Trudeau lol) Personally I like cedar but sometimes you get stuck chasing the grain a little. Poplar and basswood are options I have heard good things about but I have not tried them

Bodkin, 5/0 treble, or my fingers whatever works or is close by

I use createx which is a common choice

For the sake of learning put a line tie under the nose closer to the lip.you should see an improvement. You might as well mess around with the lure that doesn’t work right and try a few things to improve your knowledge but I would agree moving the lip closer to the nose on the next one should help

I have never found a magic equation for bill size and don’t think there is one( if there is Vodkaman Dave will know it though). The issue is weight, tie point location, angle, lip location and even body shape will action if you have a pic of the lure odds are myself or others can help correct the issues just by asking you a few questions after but when it comes to to lip size I just know what works from trial and error. In my opinion the best option is cut a few potential lips pressure fit them in the lip slot and test the action. All it takes is a layer or two off masking tape to pressure fit a lip When it comes to new lures the more things you can test before completing it the less likely you are to fail

@Outlaw4 Don’t ignore your tools theory on lure building because this is still very important. If you are not in the strike zone your odds of attracting or triggering fish decreases This is just as important as the attraction and trigger factors My opinion two of the biggest factors in a great fisherman and a meh one is getting it in the strike zone and applying a trigger to the action. Most lures are designed to attract with a basic retrieval that most fisherman can figure out easily I have posted it before a truly great fisherman can out fish an average fisherman even using crap lures because of how they apply them My opinion on lure building priorities 1) get it to the fish 2) get their attention 3) don’t have a static action. Make it so it has its own hiccup or one the angler can easily apply 4) User friendly is important. Fowling and breaking is a fail. Casting ability or trolling ability with out adding terminal tackle If a lure doesn’t meet the above it is a short lived design for me. I self a lot of OK designs that still catch fish in pursuit of something better Theses are my simple thoughts and they make my lure building complicated enough without getting into too many theories

It may not be my style but I have to say it definitely give a realistic looking detail. Very creative

Like most opinion pieces put out by fisherman I believe some of it holds merit but a lot of it is just opinion biased on his fishing style My opinion attraction is based on flicker/flash, noise/vibration and overall visibility true triggering traits are that show weakness/opportunity or create the fish to fear a loss of opportunity. Weakness is a pause, fall, or small twitch showing struggles to move. Drawing on a now or never response is a long pull/jerk, variation in speed and veering to the side Above is the main factors I consider when creating a lure and what I choose to fish with. Water color is acknowledged but I also consider how close my presentation will be to the fish. For example I have caught lots of bass in muddy water flipping dark color lizards into cover. I have also had great results trolling Lakers with bright noisy crank baits in crystal clear water One I am dropping on the fishes nose the other I am drawing fish in from a distance There is a ton of other factors I consider but it would be writing a novel lol We all have our opinions and in the end if it works keep doing it. If not change something

It’s a bass pro brand 6inch musky grub. It was the only large curly tail I could find to test it out. I plan to test some other options too but so far this one works and holds up well. I want to try a wider but still long curly tail

The fish are the most important critics I always look at multiple things for a successful test. How often does it fowl? because it doesn’t matter how well catches fish if it’s tangled 90% of the time how are the fish hitting it? If your getting poor hook ups and light bites it needs adjust And most important does it produce as well or better then other lures proven effective in that body of water. Really who wants to toss a meh lure all day when there is better options This design is showing promise. The fish were Tboneing it hard with good hook ups. I threw another one of my go to’s for this lake and it didn’t produce as well as the new design. Finally very little fowling now to see if it can produce the results in other locations or if it just had a good day

I worked pretty good and actually has a nice side to side on the twitch before it does a nose dive. Ended up with 16 smaller walleye/pike and lost one pike in the mid teens beside the kayak. Had the drag too tight and he hit right next to the kayak only took pics of the first pike and walleye because none were anything special

Well I have one finished and off to the lake to test it on pike. May need to adjust rear hook location

Yes both the amount of weight and it’s location are big factors when it comes to to action

I do mine by drops and keep small bottles of pre mixed pair around. I blend colors of paint often so this method benefits me

Hello Bruce I grew up on the west coast of BC where trout and salmon fishing are king. I think I was about 6 years old when I built my first in line spinners. I now reside is Alberta and don’t fish trout near as much and when I do it’s browns, bulls, and Lakers mostly. Usually targeting larger fish I have never been big on fishing ultra light spinners. Personally feel people under estimate trout as a predator. One of the smallest spinners I use is a #15 panther Martin. I kinda go the opposite direction in the size department then you. But in the end whatever catches fish is the best choice for an angler Yes the big sonic blades work for pike. Panther Martin does sell some bigger dressed spinners geared to the pike market. They work for pike but I find they are on the small size. Deadly for big brown and bull trout though These days I don’t build many trout spinners and when I build in-line spinners they are usually for pike. Most of the time I am playing with 9# blades with lots of dressing or big bodies I don’t have any made at this time but I did create an in-line spinner that was extremely effective on trout when I fished them more. I would basically tie an epoxy minnow fly on the wire and a couple brass beads combined with an Indiana blade. I used lead wrap inside the epoxy minnow body to reach desired weight It is a bit of a time consuming design and takes some fly tying skills but it works I have made a lot of effective in-line trout spinners in the past but my lure building has gone in a different direction for the most part

Not personally but I do know the Australian from work uses stick baits he used in saltwater back home for pike around here. I am pretty sure some of his have tail weights