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Has Jeff ever done you wrong personally? Seriously? Now there you are 100% correct. I am pretty sure Jeff has decided that they are NOT going to provide EVERYTHING they used to provide. Also, not as many options for package size, and a minimum order. I have to say I am also disappointed that he hasn't gotten everything back up and available. He's always been decent to me though. I have samples of several other plastics back on the test bench, but when he's back full time I'll be back to buy from him.

If they are back up and running this year with full supplies, I will eat the cup from which I am currently drinking my coffee from I have slammed this company publicly enough. Not gonna have another slam fest. Anyone interested in learning the fate of MF, PM me. Otherwise, I would seriously look at other suppliers.

Any updates on MF? I'm running low on plastisol, and the website is showing they're pretty much sold out on everything. Also need some colorant. And the ones I need are from MF. Don't know if I should order from them, or from another supplier that sells MF colorants. I I've tried most plastics and hate to change from MF. For a medium sinking, what brand do y'all recommend? I know which one I don't want.

Could grape seed or avacado oil be used in place of worm oil?

Thanks guys for all the input.

What is the difference in 550, 552 and 556

If I were you I wouldn't bother with the powder coating. The bare heads slide in just fine with a little lube, like worm oil or smelly jelly.

I'm pretty sure you'd think of something! Hahaha

Good for you. Those look really good. If it were me, I would concentrate on getting the glide action like I want it first. The carving/detailing and the paint scheme are for the fishermen. They're fun to do, but very secondary to the actual action of the bait. That's what catches the fish.

I meant to post this bait of mine similar to yours earlier, take a look at the lip and the line tile location. I just poured the bait a second time to make more of a jerk bait than a crank bait. All I have to do is change the lip width and length . This has a nice wide wobble. also noticed how small the tail is.

Looks good. Feels good to make progress. I would recommend pushing your joint back a little to at least 50/50, you should notice a difference. I use normally use 60/40. Not to say your configuration won’t work, but if you look at most of the more successful Baits on the market, they have a smaller backend. as for the cleaner cuts, the wood you’re using could be too soft. Take a look at Marlins Baits on YouTube. I make a 90° cut on my guideline come in with a sharp knife at an angle and sand on the backside of your cut. Your first cuts should be exaggerated so as you sand you don’t take away from the detail.

Like 21xdc, I think the lip should be at a larger down angle. However, we don’t really know the size or weight of the bait. If it’s heavy, the lip surface area needs to increase to impart enough vortex to make it wiggle and rock. Also, performance might benefit by putting the nose eyelet just below the nose point instead of above it. It reminds me of a Rapala balsa floating minnow. Very nice looking! I’d take a look at a Rapala and copy that design exactly.

As a generalization, most lipped bass crankbaits are weighted near the belly hook hanger. In fact, many of them use an integrated belly weight/hook hanger. On larger baits, like for musky, the ballast is often more distributed to affect performance. If your bait design is represented by diagrams you included, I have no earthly idea where to begin.

I wire tie my skirts anymore. Got tired of the rubber degrading and losing the skirts or even the threat of it. If you wire tie the silicone lasts forever. I do have a tool for the bands that I bought from Bubba Robinson years ago. The tool is based off the torpedo type tools but mounted on a piece poly butyl that you can clamp on a work station. Be glad to post a pic if you want one and would be relatively easy to make.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/273235550476 With these O-Rings https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367_16_17&products_id=765 1/8"ID X 5/16"OD X 3/32"CS Buna-N O-Rings 50 Duro (NBR)

Jig Man, Looks like that mold has been discontinued. I like it because it has the heavier 60 degree straight eye hook. Believe it or not I sell a lot of these because guys don't like the 90 degree aberdeen style hook. Here is a pic of the mold.

I must be doing something wrong. I can’t find the mold. What I find is 473219 TX.

So how are you guys making skirts without this tool?

I am pouring the jigs. They are 1/8, 3/16 and 1/4 oz. The mold is Do-It #3019 Tube-TX. The jigs will be powder painted for ease of sliding them on. The tubes I will be using are Poor Boys 4" tubes

I use spit. If I used anything else it would be all over me and the boat. What sizes of heads and tubes are you using? Are you pouring the heads? Are you pouring the tubes?

X 2 with the smelly jelly , though any oil / scent helps slide things in place . Darker tubes I use crawdad scent and for the lighter colors I use a shad or other scent . Works great on Huddlestons to slip past teeth in a bass for better hook ups . Have fun with the tubes !

22 works best for regular silicone, 24 for fine cut. Allen

Fishingskirts.com or Hobby Lobby. Allen

Smelly Jelly - Liquid or Jell

I just re-tie. Most don't do it often enough anyway. Takes 10 seconds.