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Incorrect. Worm oil aka plasticizer is not a hazerdous material.

Incorrect, Worm oil most suppliers sell, is straight plasticizer, Either Dop, Or Dinp. Scented worm oil may have some Essential oil in it from some manufacturers.

So he's the other one, huh? LOL

I cut most bill slots 10mm deep and that has worked OK for me. Lip angle is a complicated problem. There are very general guidelines but there are a lot of factors that influence how a bait will swim and you have to get them all working together for the best results. The simplest scenario is a shallow running (2-5 ft) bait with the line tie on the nose of the body that is ballasted to swim in a a straight ahead attitude parallel to the surface of the water. A general guideline is that a lip set at about 45 degrees will give you a good combination of depth and wiggle. A greater angle will dive shallower but will have more wiggle, and vice-versa. Like Dale pointed out, if the bait swims with a head-down attitude, that changes the "effective angle" of the lip as it moves through the water. It gets quite complicated since the lip shape, width, and length interact with the body's shape, size and ballast positioning to determine how the whole bait will perform. The best advice I can give is to model your bait on a commercial bait whose action you like. Most of them have been tested and tweaked extensively. Take your copy on the water, test it out, and then you will have a starting point from which you can then begin to experiment and tweak your bait to perform to your expectations.

DaleSW , Pm me if you run into problems tying the stuff . There are a few tricks that may help .

Thats what I do, transparent/candy paint with transparent base jiggnpig, you can get very subltle colour over foil with no muddyness or opacity.

The flatter the angle from the nose to tail center line, normally the deeper the bait will go. However the ballast location and the lure shape can have a say in this. That center line is the X line. The Y line is another imaginary line running perpendicular to the X line. Some here may give you more info describing these lines like this. If you know this, all the better. A example is, I made a bait that has a lip at 5°'s down from that center line and with the ballast forward in the bait. When the bait sets in the water the tail comes out of the water. This bait dives to 30'-40' deep. Another bait that looks similar to that one. I put the lip in at 30°'s and change the ballast location. The lure swims at 15'-20'. This lure lays level at the surface. Both of these depths are at a slow trolling speed, which this bait was created for. As far as how deep to cut them in at. My opinion is how much stress is going to be generated at that point. Trolling creates great stress on the bill and line. Therefore I cut it in about 1/2" on these deep diving baits. On a normal 15' deep cranking bait of 2.5" long I may cut it in at 1/4". The size of the bait and lip changes the stress factor to me. JMO Hope this helps, Dale

I own a few of their molds and they shoot good, the one I just love is the hollow body swimbait It's like a Basstrix, I shoot it with the insert and with out it for a solid bait, have the lizard it small finesse Style lizard but that's what I wanted both are fantastic, the tube bait mold is fine but I prefer Do its tube bait over theirs. Don't limit your self to them though cause they have just so many, try Enforcer molds from Canada, they are my favorite molds and the first ones I go to look at www.enforcerbaitmolds.com

Try enforcer mold from Canada They are my favorite mold and always the first place I look when I need something, whether I get it or not it's always the first place I look They have have this great craw mold, single cavity, 3.5" and it's just gorgeous and shoots excellent It's just under $40 and I own one. Makes a great trailer, I use it on a Texas Rig. They also have a great stick bait mold in both regular and thin, I have the Do it essential senko, and have a 4 & 5" think stick (Senko) baits in a hand pour but they also have injected mold as well and for a great price Go take a peek at what they have, I know you will love his molds and has very fair and competing prices Like I said its my go to place. Good luck homie http://www.enforcerbaitmolds.com/

No joke Al. A friend of mine swears he's put at least one of Gary's kids through college all by himself.

Your tool set reflects a number of things. How much money you have to spend. How proficient you are with various hand or power tools and how proficient you want to learn to be with them in the future. How many and how fast you need/want to turn out baits. What your attitudes and prejudices are about building baits. How much patience and time you have. Every one of us has different answers to those questions and as we develop as bait makers we refine the tool set and methods we use. There is no wrong answer. The usefulness of TU is it exposes you to tools, methods, and bait designs that are new to you. Things you had not considered or been exposed to.

I have one of his molds and I'm thinking it may be this one. In general, Shawn makes a very nice mold. Very tight CNC tolerances. You won't be able to sub any hooks in his molds and you'll only be able to use the size it calls for. Also, the small pins you see in the pic fit in the eye of the hook and that allows the lead to flow really close to the hook eye without clogging the eye. The drawback is they fit really tight in the hook eye and must be inserted in close tolerance to fit in the mold. All of this makes loading and casting a pretty slow process with this mold. So, not sure if you would want to try production in mass quantities with this one but its OK for self production. My .02

There really isn't one. It's a plasticizer. What do you desperately need it for?

Go to galleries. Go to hard baits gallery. In the upper right corner will be a button that says upload. Click it and follow the directions. The first part, step 1, is the actual upload of the pictures. Step 2 is a description of what the picture shows. You can upload more than one picture at a time, and give a separate description of each one in step 2. Then hit finish and publish at the bottom. Don't get discouraged...I can do it.