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JD_mudbug

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Everything posted by JD_mudbug

  1. I have some baits coated from Jan-Feb of 2018 with D2T. No yellowing yet. I usually write my initials and date made inside the joint or somewhere on the bait. I don't leave my baits out in the sun when not is use. Make sure you get the 2 Ton 30 minute one. The 5 minute Devcon will yellow. The packaging does look similar. Even though the package says 30 minutes, it is more like 10-15 minutes before it starts to set. I also like to use T type trebles or Ewg trebles to cut down on rash. I will sometimes T bend some trebles like the Ali 35647 model if I don't want to spend for Owner ST-35s or Mustad KVDs. I have not used UV yet. Once I get around to building a UV light set up, I am going to try the following UV resin https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YMTFM7D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B08YMTFM7D&linkCode=as2&tag=engineereda06-20&linkId=af7e71c648cd23380fcbc3423ddb6bf9 Engineered Angler's video provides some great info https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVyA-F4tosE&t=20s You would need at least two coats of UV to hold up to teeth, maybe more. I think the speed of curing is a huge plus. I also like how you can put it on a rotisserie to level it out before turning on the lights. Mark is correct on D2T glue type vs. Etex decoupage type. D2T is very tooth and hook rash resistant. When it does fail, it seems more likely a piece will chip off than with Etex. Damn bridges. I also think if the wood is not completely dry that D2T is more likely to crack from wood expansion. It is rare but I have seen it a couple of times. D2T is easy to find in a double syringe for $6 in my area. My small local hardware store carries it. I would suggest you try that before getting the bigger bottles. D2T is very easy to use. I mix by eye even when using the larger bottles. I like it for pike/musky waters. I also noticed on the last few packages I bought they had printed a Use By date on them. I don't remember that in the past. I like to buy it in the store if possible. I like to look at the packages so I can buy the clearest one and the newest one. Etex is easier for teeth to penetrate but has a better chance of surviving rocks. I have a few Etex coated wooden baits that have small dents but the Etex top coat is still intact. It just flexed with dent. I have several Etex baits going on 5 years and no yellowing either. I think Etex is a bit more temperamental than D2T. I have to pay more attention to mixing and environmental conditions with Etex. I have recoated damaged sections of both types of epoxy and the patches have held so far.
  2. Do you mean twisting the wire so one of the twists will have a space in it held open by the tube so you can cross-pin the twist-eye screw? I have never done that. I think I would just do wire-through at that point. It would be probably easier. When I do twist wire eyes, I twist the wire around a nail/rod in a vice. Cut the screw to length. Cutting the twisted part with mini-bolt cutters usually causes the end to flare wider than the rest of the twists so I file the flared part to keep the diameter the same and give it a bit of a point. Filing takes a minute or 2 but I don't like making the pilot hole bigger than necessary. I drill my pilot hole just big enough for the screw to fit. I then drill a small cup maybe an 1/8th inch deep with the end of a bigger drill bit to set the base of the eye in. I often do this by hand with just a drill bit so I don't go too deep with the cup. The screw eye will twist in with left handed twisting. I do a dry test fit to check length and back it out with right hand twisting. Then, I put epoxy in the hole with scrap wire, cheap syringe if I have one, or baggie with the corner cut off. I then coat the twisted part of the screw with epoxy and screw in by hand or using pliers. Wipe away the excess with a paper towel. Your final clear coat will also give a bit more strength as that will cover the base of the screw eye too. When I do wire-through, I use drop wires with loops on each end for hook eyes so the main wire will pass through the drop wire. Sometimes, I will use a barrel swivel in the same way instead of a drop wire. Jim
  3. .062 is strong enough. Wire thicker than .062 is hard to twist. I use .062 on large baits 2+ oz and .051 on smaller baits. .040 on typical bass size baits. I would consider going thicker than .062 when the lure is going to be over 6 oz. I sometimes have used a combo of .062 on the line tie and single screw joints and .051 for hook connections and 2 parallel screw and pin joints. I have only used Malin and US Wire stainless safety lock wire / aircraft lock wire. If you are buying wire twisting pliers, don't waste money on the 6" inch ones. They are too flimsy to twist .051 and up. Get 9" pliers or larger.
  4. Wire through is the way to go. I would go with twisted wire eyes and epoxy before .092 screws on musky baits. The force on a lure of a musky or pike thrashing in the net is brutal. You may not notice a screw eye opening up. Once the eye starts to open, it will fail in short order. It could fail on the next fish. If you do use the .092 screws, I would countersink a cup-shaped divot for the bottom of the screw eye to sit in. When the cup is filled with epoxy, the base of the screw eye will be embedded in epoxy and reduce the chance of the screw eye opening up. I have used gate hardware screws which are over .125" and noticed one had started to open up on a 38" pike. The first pike on that lure put it out of action. You put a lot of effort into making a lure to have it fail on one fish. Wire-through is easy once you make a few baits. If you are making a hinge with 2 screws coming out of the back of the front section and 2 slots plus pin in the back half, have the screw eye gap spots facing opposite directions. If one of the screws eyes start to open to the side, the force of the pull will be be against the solid side of the other screw eye. I have had that happen. Unfortunately, it was a snapping turtle and not a fish.
  5. I have made several baits where the lip is close to the front hook hanger. If the hook catching the lip does become a problem, I find that a short shank treble of the same size will usually fix it. I use Mustad KVD Elite 2X Short Shank Trebles and Owner St-35 when I run into problems.
  6. Cedar Run Outdoors also carries a .5 and 1.0. https://cedarrunoutdoors.com/unpainted-blanks/square-bills/?sort=alphaasc&page=1
  7. Day or night, I don't use a trailer hook on a spinnerbait most of the time. Very rarely there is a day where the fish just nip at it and I use a trailer hook then. That doesn't seem to happen at night at all. At night, I find the fish seem to fully commit when they strike. Night time strikes right at the boat can be heart stopping.
  8. When I fish at night, I use black nickel blades on dark nights. I use silver plate or nickel blades on nights with a bright moon or when there a lots of shore lights. I sometimes use LPO glow blades or white blades coated with Folk Art Glow in the Dark paint. I really only use the glow blades in murky water at night. I seem to get more blade strikes when using glow blades in normal conditions. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Glow-Colorado-Blades?quantity=1&custcol10=540&page=1 Instead of dulling a good gold blade, you could buy the cheap economy brass blades. The come fairly dull. You could scuff them up with a Scotch bright pad to make them even duller. I agree with Smalljaw on the arm length on a 3/4 oz bait. I find I have better luck with 1/2 oz bait with #5 Colorado or Mag Willow/Oklahoma with a shorter arm of 2-3/4 to 3-1/4", especially in shallow water and around cover. For trailers, during the day I use a Zoom or Luck e Strike spinnerbait trailer. I tend use a thin trailer that doesn't do much or even no trailer because I don't want to interfere with the flutter of the skirt. At night, I either go with no trailer or will use a grub or cut off trick worm. Spinnerbait trailers can be hard to find in black. I might use a craw if I wanted to keep the bait higher in the water column or if I was hopping it off the bottom.
  9. Hi, Welcome to the site. Here are some guesses. Better close-up pics of the ones not identified below would help. Lure lengths would also help. 1. Bill Lewis Stutter Step 2. Cabela’s Mean Eye Crankbait Shallow 3. (need a better pic) 4. Strike King Red Eye Shad 5. River 2 Sea Snub Crankbait 6. Luhr Jensen Sugar Shad 7. (need a better pic) 8. (need a better pic) 9. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 10. Strike King Red Eye Shad 11. possible Jann’s Netcraft FG Squarebill. I have some in different colors and the lines match. 12. Strike King Pro Model Series 3 Crankbait 13. (squarebill, need a closeup to see molding lines) 14. Ima Squarebill 15. (a better side pic might help) Looks like a painted fin on there? 16. Fairly common, might be hard to identify. Looks like a knock off the discontinued Cabela’s Dig It crankbait (not the Dig It Craw). 17. Bandit 100 Series Crankbait 18. Strike King Squarebill 2.5. Chartreuse Crazy Shad color which has been very effective for me the past couple of years. I am a sucker for the old school crackle back look on that bait. 19. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 20. Gary Yamamoto Midasu Lipless Crankbait (fish in pupil is the giveaway) 21. Rapala Scatter Rap 22. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 23. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 24. A better pic will help. Looks like there is a small dorsal fin? 25. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 26. This minnow has a rearward point at the top of the gill plate. I have seen it somewhere but can’t remember where. I will keep looking for it. 27. L&S Mirrolure, could be a Top Dog model 28. Bass Pro Shops XPS popper (no red gill line), discontinued model, new one is different 29. Booyah Prank 30. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 31. Strike King Squarebill 1.5 32. (need a better pic) 33. (need a better pic) 34. 6th Sense Movement 80X or a knockoff 35. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 36. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 37. (squarebill*, need a closeup to see molding lines) 38. Bass Pro Shops XPS popper (no red gill line), discontinued model, new one is different 39. Yozuri Pop’n Splash, Arms Series (Duel) 40. could be Yozuri Surface Cruiser or Tsunami Talkin pencil popper. These lures used to come in smaller sizes. Length would help here. (need a better pic too) 41. Bomber Square A 42. Looks like fairly generic lipless crank. Could be hard to identify. A closeup might help. 43. (minnow crankbait**) 44. (minnow crankbait**) 45. (minnow crankbait**) 46. (minnow crankbait**) 47. Rapala X-Rap 48. Rapala X-Rap 49. Rapala X-Rap 50. (minnow crankbait**) 51. (minnow crankbait**) *Squarebills – There are so many brands and knockoffs out there. A lot of these are sold at fishing expos by various vendors. They run the range in quality from junk to good quality with nice paint schemes. They may be hard to identify. The ones where the front gill plate line looks like a curved 'Y' and there is a shorter second gill plate line are knocks offs of the Lucky Craft. The pics have to be clear and show all lines on the gill plate, the scale cross hatching and the eye pupil to have a chance. **Minnow crankbaits – These look like store type brands such as Bass Pro XTS, Ozark Trail, Walmart Pradco assorted bin lures, Chinese lures from Amazon/Ali. These may also be hard to identify. Jim
  10. Yes, I wanted a higher frequency. The LPO magnum jig dancer blades have a low frequency. I think they should sell a size halfway between the normal size and mag size. The big blade Chatterbait size is right in-between the 2 LPO sizes. The LPO mag blade has a much bigger surface area than the big blade Chatterbait when you hold them next to each other. Fortunately, it is easy to trim down the mag blades and smooth the edges.
  11. LPO makes a magnum blade as well. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Mag-Jig-Dancer-Blades_2 I find that the magnum LPO blades are too big and don't give as sharp as a vibration as I like. I trim them down some with metal shears and a file to get the vibration I want. You need to smooth the edges with a file in case the line should hit the blade on a cast or pause/rip during a retrieve.
  12. It might be hard to find specific designs because there are many variables: blade type and size, wire size, size/weight/number of beads and bodies, hook type/size/dressing, etc. I base mine off the main brand types like Mepps, Blue Fox and Panther Martin. I vary the design to add more or less weight and/or up or downsize the blade to achieve different running depths. The following posts should help. There are lots of pics in the Gallery too. https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/38302-spinner-body-weight/ https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/38287-spinner-vibration/ https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/38131-mepps-spinners/
  13. Devcon 2 Ton has not yellowed on me yet. I keep my baits out of the light when not in use. I have some baits at least 10 years old. I think Devcon 2 ton will eventually yellow. In my experience, it will take years with proper bait storage.
  14. No, it was a joke. I drilled a test hole 10 feet from shore in 3 feet of water and quickly realized I should not be on the ice. Next time if you see someone doing that with their rod, tell them to let out extra line, wrap the line around a stick and do the pull thing. Don't risk breaking the rod. I walk the ice with a telescopic 12' pole and retrieve lures from trees. If the lures are too high, I tie paracord to a 1' long 1.5" diameter stick with a rag on it. I throw the stick over the branch, get the lure snagged on the rag or stick, and pull it down with the paracord. Over the past decade, I have found several hundred lures. I do it from my boat too. The lures are easier to spot in winter with no leaves on the trees.
  15. If you go through the trouble of making a master and a mold, you might as well use a casting resin that is waterproof. The Smooth On and Alumalite products are better suited for lure bodies. All clear coats can fail. You never know when a rock or bridge support will jump out in front of your lure. We went from 15" inches of ice to 'my ATV is at the bottom of the lake' in a few days. A 55 degree day, followed by a 70 degree day, followed by a 50 degree day with rain wiped out nearly a foot of ice. There are a couple of rivers I can fish but they are hazardous right now. The water is high and the current is swift due to the snow melting. As the water rises, it picks up trees and sticks from shore. Lots of floating logs to dodge.
  16. I think you could make a POP crankbait float with microspheres. I can't remember for sure but I think hardened POP will float on its own until it softens and dissolves. Dave is right it can be used for both casting and molds. I just don't think it would hold up as a casting of a lure body. The impacts on casts and fish strikes would cause POP to crack. Any water penetration would doom a POP lure. POP makes great castings to replicate detailed plaster work for building interiors. But those castings just sit on walls and ceilings and aren't taking any abuse.
  17. By 90 degree hook, do you mean the hook eye would come out on the back (top) of the head and that is where the blade will attach? The blade will be set back from the tip of the nose? If so, I bought a bladed jig like that. It snags on any piece of vegetation and you can't shake it off. Anything soft gets caught on the top of the head and the hook eye. You can't rip it from the weeds, which can be the best way to trigger bites. The weeds just come with it. Another drawback is that a lot of trailers kill the action. I had to use a low drag trailer. Paddletails kill the blade action. I don't use it anymore. I prefer the blade to be attached at the front like on the typical bladed bait types.
  18. As Travis said, POP is just as easy to use as silicone. Measure properly, mix properly. It probably isn't the best product for your detailed swimbaits. POP is mostly used for ornamental ceiling, cornice and wall details like the rosettes around ceiling light fixtures. POP works great for soft plastics because those baits are pliable and can be demolded from a hard POP mold. Microspheres are compatible with POP. But, why would you want to do that? The mold would be made of POP and there is no need for the spheres in the mold. You don't want to make baits out of POP. POP is only durable in a static environment. If you want to make a big sun dial on your ceiling and are concerned about the weight, POP can be lightened with the spheres. Plasterers use POP with spheres to make a lightweight fill material for delicate plaster repair work.
  19. I also have made molds out of Plaster or Paris. My first mold was using sections of threaded rod to make a senko-type mold. I melted old soft plastic baits in a microwave to use in that mold. Cheap and easy. You may also want to try a casting resin like Alumalite High Strength 3 Casting resin. You can get a 1 lb. kit for $30. https://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Casting-Products-Liquid-Rubber/dp/B07Q331JYR You can make your masters out of Sculpey if you want to cut down on carving time. https://www.amazon.com/Sculpey-Super-Sculpturing-Compound-Beige/dp/B0026C1T8C Mike Lopez's video shows a quick way to make big baits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVXeSBG-2-8
  20. Your welcome. Sorry to hear it is not worth more. So many Flatfish were sold, genuine and knockoffs, it seems that they don't get the collectors' love that the other brands do. Your lure has the Helin body lines. Based on an X4 or 5, it looks like what I would envision a Flatfish F8 or 9 would have looked like if those existed. The hook setup in the grooves is definitely notable enough to be in a display case even if not worth a lot. I once built a bottom crawling sinking hard bait with 2 top-mounted single hooks in a groove in the center of the back. Your pics reminded of it. The hooks were set in the groove like your 'flatfish' but could swing out on a screw eye. The hooks were held in the groove by a magnets. It was a dud. Jim
  21. I have not had a problem with Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) reacting with anything yet. It does not affect my soft plastic (plastisol) and silicone fins. It's a very good clear coat and cheap. You can buy the double syringe for $5-7 if you just want to try it out.
  22. Unfortunately, some of the early Flatfish had no markings. Some had the model number ink-stamped near the tip of the lip/diving surface which wore off easily. Later, they model number was put on the top of the back. I don’t know if you have any old Bassmaster magazines. Karl White used to do a series called “What is it worth?” on older lures. His email address was at the end of the section where people could send in photos of lures. He retired and opened up a tackle museum with his collection. I couldn’t find any old Bassmasters with his lure articles. You might try that email if you can find it in an old Bassmaster. You could try to track down the 1996 book “A Collectors Guide to the Helin Tackle Company” by Jack Turner. These links have some Helin and Flatfish info: https://www.mybaitshop.com/pages/helin-tackle-company https://helintacklecollector.wordpress.com/ This link has a list of sites on old tackle. I have not been on all of them. Maybe you can get lucky and find some info on one of them. https://lurelore.com/links.html Good luck on your search. Jim
  23. Get a sketch pad for practicing. PVC and plastic pipe also works well for practicing on curved surfaces. Practice making dots and circles of varying sizes Airbrush Asylum has some good tutorial videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inZcoxkuylk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2r9YyaGx3k&list=PLkd3s0ymmV0OKlXI7wEma4Z4ntvXMs9jv&index=1 I would start with paintjobs to replicate whatever your local baitfish look like, craws, and some standard color schemes. We have a lot of gold shiner and yellow perch in my area. I also usually do an all black with red throat, chartreuse black back, and pearl white with blue or smoke back.
  24. It would depend on if you are talking a single piece glider or a jointed S-waver type bait. If you are talking single piece body, I like a ballast 1/4 to 1/3 the distance on the body from the nose and another ballast 1/4 to 1/3 from the tail end. You can change the amounts to affect the sink rate rate and body angle position. I like very slow sinking baits. I will adjust the ballast amounts so the bait sits slightly nose down to keep it running below water at the depth I let it sink to. I will adjust the ballast to make the bait sit slightly tail down to run subsurface or surface. For an S waver jointed type, I like the sections to float/sink in a straight line across the sections. You don't want the sections at an angle to each other for the best joint movement. I like these nose down for subsurface and level for surface.
  25. Epoxy thinned with DN, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES), Spar Urethane cut with 25% mineral spirits, propionate wood sealer if you can find it, and superglue all do a good job. Minwax Wood Hardener makes a good and very tough seal coat. But, the dry time is long. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKjZsSbD2IM https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/37551-propionate-source/ You have to be careful with boiled linseed oil due to the fire risk. Boiled linseed oil generates heat when it dries and can ignite rags, paper towels and other trash causing a spontaneous combustion fire. I haven’t tried it but Brotherhood Baits sells a wood bait sealer. You could also try PVC boards and not have to worry about sealing.
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