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Everything posted by azsouth

  1. painted and finished.... just need to throw them.
  2. Alright guys, I did put in an order from Fishhead lures on the Nov. 12th and they are in my hand on Nov. 14th!! That's amazing to me! Baits look good but until I paint, finish and test.... I can't say how good they are.
  3. My suggestion is you have to figure it out for yourself, We don't fish your waters or baits... I think it would be easier to pick you a wife. Personally my trick is also co-poly but it fits my style and baits .... for me you can't beat P-Line original. Also there are many tricks to keeping the line memory to a minimum that take just a second or 2. That is where time and effort on your waters/baits with your style, put in the time for yourself and it will pay off better than anything anyone can tell you.
  4. You might try Fishhead Custom Lures .... I have not personally bought any from him but he took over the best supplier I have found. If you do buy from him I would sure love to here how the quality and service are.
  5. azsouth

    Clear Coat

    It's like asking for the perfect anything, it's subjective to the lure, water and species of fish. So being very specific would help.
  6. For me, I usually let the bait sit for a day after I foil it.
  7. I would be willing to say not enough weight in the bottom of the lure, for better help is it wood or resin? Normally lipless baits are smaller at the top going to wider at the bottom.
  8. Fishhead15, Dinger had the best blanks that I have seen! the question is "Are your blanks going to be the same quality as Dingers were?
  9. Normally if your bait lists to one side. weight is not centered. bait is off... meaning that left and right side or not equal. If the bait is tall... you're not using enough weight. without pictures from multiple angles tough to nail down the problem. My .02
  10. I only use water based paints and I still use a filter booth. 20 inch fan attached to a storage container with a furnace filter attached to the opposite side. If you're going to paint/finish in a basement it would be a good idea to pipe fumes out of the basement. Most finishes are pretty bad stuff. The other problem I see would be high humidity in the basement.
  11. I personally don't fish Muskies but from what everyone talks about wire thru is the way to go.
  12. V-block would help but also forget the band saw unless you have a very expensive one, the blade wobbles and moves with the slightest pressure. I personally use a precise dovetail saw, you will need a bit of practice.
  13. YouTube Butch Brown goes into detail how he does it but does not tell you the type of foam he uses. Many different types of urethane foam to start with.
  14. Weight placement is my bet, I am guessing the bait it is wood, that would leave me to believe that you don't have enough weight or not perfectly inline. Guessing what's wrong without seeing it is quite difficult.
  15. Well since Dinger is gone, I would choose Shelts Fishing Tackle.
  16. I don't use Alumilite uv but I do use uv hard resin, before second coat I hit it with 400 grit sandpaper. I have not had any problems but my fish don't have teeth.
  17. I take the baits apart, No matter how careful I try to be.... it was never good job finishing them. sticking joints, missed finish areas, poor clearance, which turned out to be... at best...to be a learning experience. So now I take everything apart. My .02
  18. I have found in fishing inline spinners that I have a lot more bites at the bottom end of the blade speed, almost to the point that the blade will stutter/shimmy or just stop... I would say 90% of all my fish come from the unstable slower speeds. You need to figure out what works for the fish and area you are fishing.
  19. Keep trying things and let your imagination run wild. The worst thing that can happen is it does not work.
  20. I believe it will spin slower with a possible stutter. You might also have issues with starting the blade. Let us know how it works.
  21. having a reaction between paints and epoxy or your bait has oil from hands.
  22. I have commented in the past on how to properly cut Lexan/Polycarbonate....and I think it pretty much goes unheard.. 1. use a table saw or chop saw. 2. This is a must!!! use a SHARP CARBIDE BLADE!! Minimum 80 tooth blade preferably higher. 3. cuts should be made at a slow pace. 4. For a beautiful edge finish use a propane torch to shine the edges( it don't take much), be sure and not to burn the material. 5. This is the fastest and most accurate way to make exact pieces with little practice.
  23. azsouth

    Bad hooks

    not normal, I would call LPO and send pick.
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